Taste test: 9beer puts 3 local beers up against Budweiser's Project 12 brews

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Jesse Folk
jesse.folk@wcpo.com

As Americans’ taste for craft beer grows, it’s causing a shift in how
the big brewers are approaching the market.

Beer lovers might have noticed Anheuser-Busch’s “Shock Top” wheat line
or MillerCoors’ “Batch 19” line, among others.

Enter Budweiser’s “Project 12” initiative into the mix. It’s the same
event that brought forth the beer giant’s new “Black Crown” amber
lager.

The idea goes like this: Budweiser releases three small-batch styles
made by brewmasters at its various breweries to see what the public
likes best in order to create a new beer to add to the lineup.

According to the company, the brewmasters have to develop the recipes
using the yeast that they’ve been using since 1876.

Each beer is identified by the ZIP code from the brewery where it was
made. This year there is a beer from Columbus in the mix.

Straight from Budweiser’s website, here are the descriptions for the
three contenders:

Batch 94534 (Fairfield, Calif.): Brewed with a unique blend of North
Pacific hop varieties, including Cascade and Palisade, this bold,
hoppy lager is 5.5% alcohol by volume (ABV) and offers a distinct
taste of the American Northwest.
Batch 23185 (Williamsburg, Va.): Aged on a bed of bourbon barrel
staves and vanilla beans, this light amber lager indulges the sweet
side and features a 5.5% ABV.
Batch 43229 (Columbus, Ohio): Brewed with chocolate and caramel malts
for a rich auburn appearance and finished on Beechwood chips for a
crisp, clean taste, this deep amber lager is 6% ABV.
Bud fans are encouraged to vote for their favorite in a variety of
ways, including a Bud website and social media.

The response has not always been warm from microbrewers. They are
rightly worried that a macro-brewer moving in on their turf could push
them out of local markets, snatching up customers who are new to
microbrew.

Some customers might opt for a slightly cheaper six-pack from the
macrobrewers rather than take a chance on the craft beer that they
aren't used to. However, choosing the local alternative has more of an
impact as the money you spend stays in the local economy as opposed to
be dispersed across the country.

Many Cincinnati brewers offer beers at Tri-State grocery stores
similar in price to the macro-brews to boot. Also, getting beer in
take-home growlers direct from a tap room will always give you more
bang for your buck.

The release of Budweiser’s Project 12 has me wondering what local
beers might offer a similar experience for craft beer newbies and fans
alike.

To that end I set up an unscientific taste test with two of my
WCPO.com compatriots. Here are the Queen City beers we put in
head-to-head tastings:

Rhinegeist’s Zen Pale Ale: American Pale Ale with Golden Promise malt
base and dry hopped with Cascade and Simcoe; 4.5%ABV, 45 IBU
Rivertown’s Dunkel: A Munich-style dark lager with “surprisingly light
body and mild roasted flavor and caramel undertones.” 5.8% ABV, 24 IBU
Triple Digit’s Cranium Coffee Vanilla Bourbon Stout: A bourbon
barrel-aged imperial oatmeal stout with coffee and vanilla. 11.5% ABV
60 IBU
Rivertown and Triple Digit’s beers are available in bottles, and
Rhinegeist’s is available on draft or in 32 or 64 ounce growlers.
Also, there are only limited quantities of the Cranium and Zen, so
you’ll have to snatch that up before it runs out.

Here’s our unfiltered tasting notes:

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Budweiser’s North Pacific Lager:

Refreshingly crisp
Still mostly tastes like Budweiser, but the hoppy aftertaste can
sometimes juxtapose strangely against the pilsner malts
Exudes a slightly sour smell
  

  



Rhinegeist’s Zen Pale Ale:

Refreshingly crisp but with a balanced malt-to-hops taste overall
Significantly more aromatic
Zen was more carbonated/bubbly, more pleasing taste
Finishes clean, no lingering aftertaste

Budweiser put forth a decent effort into making a hoppy lager. The
three of us agreed that either beer would be great for camping or
tailgating. We’d love to see Rhinegeist make the Zen Pale Ale one of
the first beers it cans. The Zen was just simply more balanced than
the NPL with none of the negatives.

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Budweiser’s Beechwood Bock:
• Consistent flavor from start to end; a true departure from Bud’s
normal taste
• Overly sweet, yet with the same sour smell as the NPL
• Has a heavy body/mouthfeel, almost mealy in taste
• Has a striking color, but is not refreshing
• Not sure what season or event this would be pleasing to drink during
  

  


Rivertown’s Dunkel:
• Great beer for fall or early spring
• Is almost as sweet as the Bock but is more balanced thanks to the
hops
• Lighter mouthfeel, refreshing to drink
• Would order for hearty meals, great dinner beer

Our initial excitement over the Beechwood Bock was immediately
tempered by an overly sweet taste that stayed throughout the drinking
of the beer. The Bock needs more hops or a lighter body to make the
beer work. The Dunkel was significantly more balanced. Though still as
sweet as the Bock, the malty flavor was balanced by a light body and
healthy hop addition.

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Budweiser’s Vanilla Bourbon Cask Lager:
• Strong, pleasing vanilla aroma and flavor
• Can get a hint of the bourbon but it’s very faint
• Crisp beer but suffers from a buttery/candy aftertaste
• Improved significantly as it got warmer
• Could be a pleasing after-dinner beer


  


Triple Digit’s Cranium Coffee Vanilla Bourbon Stout:
• Whoa…. Just whoa
• Intense, flavorful beer that is delightfully complex
• All flavors are well-balanced: taste goes from coffee to vanilla to
malt to bourbon
• Heavy body and very strong, not a beer you’ll be having several
pints of
• Aroma is wonderfully complex; this beer requires almost all your
senses

This was a slightly less fair matchup. Not only is Cranium a stout as
opposed to an amber lager; it’s also significantly more alcoholic.
That said, Budweiser’s entry did a good job standing its ground. If
the brewers can figure out how to get rid of the buttery taste, they
could have a winner. Cranium is simply unbeatable in this category
though.

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Overall, Budweiser put together some decent entries that we hope will
entice beer lovers who haven’t quite come over to craft to consider
trying something new. We were most pleased with the North Pacific
Lager overall. It was still crisp and refreshing and had a distinctive
hoppy flavor that would balance out the mellowness that Bud is known
for.

If you’re looking to try something new though, we highly recommend you
head to Rhinegeist, Rivertown or Triple Digit for a taste of their
beers. Not only will you be treated to some unique Queen City flavors,
your dollars will be staying in the community as well.

Follow #9Beer's Jesse Folk on Twitter at @wcpojesse.


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