I've got a great tasting red ale, with added finishing hops that has been bottle conditioning for 12 days. It is getting carbonated although I wish it were a tad more carbonated. The trouble is, there is very little head. Clean glass, etc. so I'm kind of at a loss. Perhaps a few more days in the bottle will help?
How much priming sugar and what size batch? 2 weeks is not enough time for bottle conditioning especially if the beer was really clear. Give it 4-5 weeks before you jump off the ledge. I quit the bottle conditioning and started kegging because I couldn't wait. Way less frustration and beer faster and easier. No more bottle washing and priming.
Bier, I used 4 ounces (weighed) of priming sugar in a 5 gal. batch, which ended up being about 4 3/4 gal. in the secondary. The beer was fairly clear, being a week in primary, and close to two weeks in secondary. I can't wait to start kegging. Do you force carbonate?
Give it time, it'll be a lot better if you wait for a few weeks.
I keg also, my method now is this:
primary in a glass carboy, secondary in a corney keg (Either vent every few days or allow it to naturally carbonate). Put the beer at 38f (My kegerator temp) for about 1-2 days on co2 to settle yeast. Draw off a glass or 2 until beer is mostly clear. use a jumper (2 liquid ball locks and a hose) to transfer from secondary keg to clean/sanitized keg (Better if you pressurize it first). Hook up keg to kegerator and drink the next day.
This results in fairly clear beer, most of the yeast that settles is gone in my serving keg. If I am taking a keg to a party I always transfer off the sediment to a clean/sanitized keg so I don't show up with cloudy beer.
The major advantages to this are:
1) corney kegs take up less space in a lagering refrigerator/converted freezer. 2) racking cane is only used once, less chance of infection, and MUCH easier.the >
eing a week in primary, and close to two weeks in
Yeah I force carbonate now but I used to bottle condition. My priming sugar was at 7ml per liter which is about 4 and 2/3 ounce by weight per
5 gallons. Let me know how it is in a couple weeks.
Will do, I try one every evening! It IS getting better by the day now!
Every once in a while I get a batch that just doesn't seem to get a good head on it. Kind of like what you are saying, there is just a very small amount ouf head usually around the edge of the glass. Other times I get a nice thick foamy head that lasts the entire duration of the mug. I have researched this on the web and there are various theories as to what causes wimpy head. One is temp variations while ferminting and another is bittering hops.
Temp variations are supposedly a culprit because it makes for weak yeast and can cause yeast cell count to be irratic. When bottled the yeast is not strong enough to really cause that head power that healthier yeast can produce. At least that is one theory.
Hops are said to do more than just bitter a beer. Supposedly if the hops are fresh and have just the right chemical balance they can make or break a good head. Again this appears to be nothing more than theory.
From previous posts I would take it that some are saying it all has to do with how well the beer is carbinated and by kegging you are guaranteed good head. I have been a bottle man for years and have a batch ferminting that will be going into my first keg in about 2 weeks. Bad part is that from my past experience if this batch gets a good head, is it from the keg or would it have had good head even if I had bottled? Only time will convince me of the CO2 theory.
If after many batches in kegs ALL coming out with nice heads then I may jump on the band wagon and say, "Yep it is all about good carbination that makes a good head". Untill then I still have yet to hear anyone with a definate answer on the subject. Even left a post on it once. Not sure if anyone ever replied but will be checking here soon to see.
Head retention is unrelated to CO2 amount or space in the bottle. Hops have very little to do with head. Proteins left in the beer will allow good head. Add some wheat or flaked oats or flaked barley to your all-grain bill to leave some proteins behind. If you extract brew then add some wheat DME to your fermentables. These things won't adversely affect the beer if used in moderation (5-6 ounces per 5 gallons).
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