Fermenting under preasure...

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Good day group!

I have few questions.

When primary fermentation finishes, why is it necessary to move beer from
yeast sediment?
I used to move it, mix in priming sugar and bottle, beer would have
secondary fermentation in bottle and is naturally carbonated...

As I jet do not have equipment for forced carbonation and is a bit to big
investment for me at a moment, I wondered if it is possible to have primary
fermentation in beer keg with safety valve set to for instance 2bar so that
I end up with probably right carbonated beer which after fermentation can be

Also is there any source for counter pressure bottle filling equipment, and
is it possible to setup such system at home and that it is made by hand or I
have to buy it??

Oh, and one more :) why is it necessary to cool down worth quickly, I see
many discussion is made on worth chillers so I wondered??

Ah, and worth aeration, can pump for fish tanks be used to pump air in
worth? And how necessary it really is?? Till now I used naturally chilled
worth without aeration and results were quite ok... I used live yeast I got
from local brewery.. not sure what kind of yeast it is but they told me it
is technological secret.. yeast is used to ferment their worth and is
capable to ferment up to 18% alcohol..

Many many thanks for all answers


Re: Fermenting under preasure...

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It isn't "necessary" to rack to a secondary fermenter.  Doing so gets
the wort off of the old dead yeast and particles of grain and proteins
that have fallen out of suspension and improves the final product.

We use priming sugar, after fermentation in the secondary is complete,
because it gives us tight control on the amount of carbonation in the
bottles.  Too much carbonation and the bottles break, and in some
styles of beer low carbonation is desirable.

Depending on secondary fermentation in the bottles will work - but the
results will be variable (and nobody likes flat beer, or broken

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Well the pressure relief idea should work fine as long as the valve
doesn't plug with foam and particles of grain etc..  Fermentation is a
little slower under pressure.  When you release the pressure and run
the beer through hoses into bottles you'd lose a lot of carbonation
and have flat beer.  You'd have to bottle under pressure.

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Never wanted to do it that way myself - too costly and complicated.
Easier to bottle with priming sugar or put it in a keg.
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There are proteins present in the wort from the grains used.  Some of
these proteins will  float around in the beer if the wort cools slowly
(particularly after the beer is chilled).  Cloudy looking beer is not
attractive . . .

Chilling the wort quickly causes the proteins to fall out of

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Aeration is necessary from the yeast's perspective.  You want to do
all you can to provide a good environment for the yeast so it
supplants any bacteria that may be present - give it a good start.

Failing to aerate may cause very slow fermentation.  If you use
partial boil the water you add to bring the volume of liquid up may
already contain enough dissolved oxygen to get the yeast started.

Air pumps will work.  Filter the air and keep the hoses and air stone

Spraying the makeup water in a partial boil technique works.
Agitating with a mechanical device like a wire wisk will work.

Do not, DO NOT aerate hot wort - cool it first.  Aerating hot wort
causes oxidation and changes the flavor of the beer in a most
disagreeable way.

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You'd do well to read some of the on-line tutorials on beer making and
learn to do it the home brewer's way - then start experimenting with
pressure fillers etc..  Learn to walk, then learn to run.

A very good site for homebrew information:

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