TN: Cellar Gems with Matt: 70s CalCabs, 90s SuperTuscans, Latours, Giacosas, more

Monday no wine, Tuesday Betsy made slightly spicy Greek meatballs with feta and tomato sauce, I had no Greek wines so opened the 2013 Burlotto Barbera d'Alba. More tannic structure than I expect in Barbera, the acids I do exp ect, and quite full black cherry fruit. This is quite tasty but could use a little time in bottle. Fine value B+/B

Matt comes to town! One of our former organizers of our Bordeaux group was in town from CA, and Paul arranged a nice dinner at the Gander

Amuses of blini with sea trout roe and a artic char crudo with capers

2001 Donnhoff Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spatlese Trocken Not at all austere, brisk, apple, ginger and a little petrol. Really quite good, but hard to drink after I taste the offdry 04. B+

2004 Donnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spatlese Big but balanced ample acids, citrus and slate, very long. A-/B+

1st Flight Barbarescos Beef Tartare, Lardo, Hazelnuts, Pecorino

2001 Bruno Giacosa Asili Barbaresco (double-decanted , 4 hours in decanter earlier in day)I thought this tight and unexpressive, but seemed to be a good wine underneath. That was confirm ed when I revisited at end of night, lots of air time had helped a lot. Red fruits, smoke, a little citrus peel. B for drinking now, but I suspect in

15 years I'd be in A territory.

2001 Bruno Giacosa Riserva Rabaja, Barbaresco (double-decanted , 4 hours in decanter earlier in day) More expressive, ver y rich and complete, very young but still delicious. B+/A-

2000 Bruno Giacosa Asili Riserva Barbaresco I found this a bit odd, with a slightly sour note. Big ripe fruit, lots of tannin, maybe just needs time to sort itself out. B-

2nd Flight (California Cabernet) Sunchoke Soup, Braised Brisket, Bordelaise Vinaigrette

1978 Heitz Martha's Vineyard (double-decanted that AM) Wow, I was very happy with this showing. There wa s some funk when I decanted, but by dinner there was just pure sweet old Ca li Cab. Black cherry fruit, smoke, spice, herb (but only a hint of eucalypt us). Complete and complex. Shows just as well 2 hours later. A-/A

1976 Heitz Martha's Vineyard (double-decanted that AM) also really good, though maybe a half-step behind another bottle Paul opened last Dec. Rich red fruit, a little mocha, nice length. The herby notes here do have some eucalyptus. B+/A-

1977 Ch. Montelena Black fruits, cigarbox, leather. Really good, nice contrast to the Heitzs, I think I would have thought Bordeaux blind. A-

3rd Flight (Super Tuscans) Casareccia, Oxtail ragu, Polenta, Cloumage, Beef Jerky

1999 Antinori Solaia I was surprised how much I liked this- I generally avoid Cab heavy Tuscans. Blackcurrants, coffee, some rose- floral notes, wood present but not heavy . B+.

1997 Antinori Solaia Corked. They tried the Saran wrap trick which left it non-corked but non-dr inkable.

1997 Antinori Tignanello Very ripe, fairly developed. B-

1995 Antinori Tignanello A bit fresher, good acids and tannins. B

4th Flight Chateau Latour Grilled Hanger Steak, Smoked Mushroom Gratin, Soubise, broccoli

2004 Chateau Latour (double-decanted , 1 hour in decanter earlier in day) Very young, a bit glo ssy, but nice core underneath. I thought it got better with air. A couple o f people strongly disliked. B+

2001 Chateau Latour Young, a hard core underneath, not as charming as most '01s but maybe just shut down. B

1988 Chateau Latour Now this is what Latour should be like. Masculine but refined, tannins stil l there but smooth. B+/A-

1975 Chateau Latour Some funky brett and lots of caramelly oxidative notes. C

one more to finish

1988 Ch. Climens I love the way acids balance out '88s, and this is one of my alltime favori te Sauternes/Barsacs. Big but balanced, lovely peach, apricot and mango fru it very long finish, A- Really fun night, I liked the food, company was great, especially great to see Matt.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Reply to
DaleW
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What is the saran wrap trick?

I dont see how anything (other than maybe some chemistry or syfy radiation) can remove the corked taste? Or are you using the word for something diffe rent then we do? are you talking about cork pieces in the wine to remove? I m talking about tan infection in the cork that gives it a nasty scent and f lavour that spreads in the wine. Invisible, cant be removed.

Reply to
Michael Nielsen

n-drinkable.

n) can remove the corked taste? Or are you using the word for something dif ferent then we do? are you talking about cork pieces in the wine to remove? Im talking about tan infection in the cork that gives it a nasty scent and flavour that spreads in the wine. Invisible, cant be removed.

TCA (the compound that causes the cork taint)allegedly can be removed or mi tigated by pouring the wine over a ball of saran wrap. I haven't tried it.

Reply to
Bi!!

What Bill said. Basically, it's a biphasic (solid-liquid) extraction of the hydrophobic TCA molecule (2,4,6-trichloroanisole) from the aqueous environment of water. The problems with this method are twofold: first, it's not a perfect partitioning, so you're knocking the TCA levels down to beneath your detection threshold, but there's still enough in there to potentially "fruit scalp" your wine; secondly, it's not clear that other flavor components aren't also getting extracted out along with the TCA.

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

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