TN: Margaux AC at the Gander

Our Bordeaux group met at the Gander last night for a visit to the appellat ion of Margaux.

Some snacks- shrimp toast and "brisket tater tots"

2000 Raveneau "Montmains" Chablis 1er Honied, mature, a nutty bit of oxidation, not dead but lacking in verve. B- /C+

2004 Pavillon Blanc du Margaux I was surprised how much I liked this, lively, citrus and apple, a little l anolin, nicely balanced. B+

Raw Sea Trout with lardo

1976 Chateau Palmer Nice surprise, lead pencil, red fruit, some dirt. B

1978 Chateau Margaux This was quite funky at first, seemed to clean up, but a retaste later was a roll in the barnyard. Soft , floral, plummy. A B while we tasted, later t aste was too much for me.

Duck confit, gnocchi, and chanterelles wtth a really intense mushroom brodo ,

1983 Ch. Rauzan-Segla Cigarbox, sweet fruit, a pointe, very nice. B+

1986 Ch. Rauzan-Segla Double-decanted. First bottle corked, this bottle had only been standing a day or so, but poured clean. A little extra tangy when first served, fills out with time, cassis and black cherry with leather and earth, good length. A-

Crispy branzino wth sweetbreads & creamed kale

1988 Chateau Margaux This is very '88, tannin and a bit stern/brooding. But there's some eleganc e for the vintage, and I am surprised how much I like B+/A-

1989 Ch. Palmer My WOTN. Elegant, balanced, complete. Heady mix of dark fruits, flowers, an d spice. A/A-

Tubetti with veal cheek in a foie gras sauce

1995 Ch. Margaux More open than the '96, rich and ripe, very nice. A-

1996 Ch. Margaux This is my candidate for an eventual A. A bit in its shell but you can sens e the power underneath, its a stereotype but iron fist in velvet glove. B+ for now

sousvide pork with potatoes and black truffle

1996 Chateau Palmer Somehow I didn't write anything for this one, but thought good if young.,

1996 Rauzan-Segla corked

Since we had the big meat dish arriving with only one wine, I pulled my bac kup wine, and Ramon did the same

1988 Rauzan-Segla Another somewhat sturdy '88, still a bit of tannin, but nice briary fruit. B+/B

1995 Malescot St Exupery Pretty open right off the bat, plummier fruit, a little vanilla. B+/B

Really nice group, good wines, excellent service , great food (I think ever yone liked last course the least, the sousvide made the single-source pork taste a bit like luncheon loaf, otherwise everything was great).

Group voting (3/2/1 system)

1989 Palmer - 18 1995 Margaux 17 1996 Margaux 6 1986 Rausan Segla 4 1978 Margaux 4 1988 Margaux 1 1983 Rausan Segla 1

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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DaleW
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