TN: Northern Rhones at Racines NYC

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Ramon organized a group for a Northern Rhone dinner at Racines last night.  
Old friends, a few New Yorkers I hadn’t met before, and even one Rh
onehead down from Boston. Fun group, though as usual with a long table most
 of my interaction was with one side. Some back and forth about what was av
ailable a la carte, but I was happy with my duck crisp appetizer and cote d
e boeuf.  

MV Krug Grande Cuvee Lot 164
I was curious to try after all the hype. I’m not the biggest Krug f
an but this ‘08 base is touted as atypical. I thought the nose gorg
eous and complex, and it seemed more lithe than most Krug. Very good. But I
 have 2 bottles and couldn’t help thinking I could have bought 2 bo
ttles of Comtes instead and had money left over. B+

NV Benoit Lahaye “Violaine”  
A bit stern and austere at first, but I liked a lot more on revisit. Green  
apple and citrus, bright, low dosage. B+

The reds

1983 Jaboulet “Thalabert”  Crozes-Hermitage
This smelled good when double-decanted about 3 (tons of fine sediment), but
 I was a little worried at first pour, there seemed to be a slight stewed n
ote. But it blows off leaving a nice wine. Good acid backbone, with a lot o
f those Thalabert meaty/mushroom notes. B+

1991 Ogier Cote-Rotie
Exotic nose , with spice and black olives. Mid-bodied, tannins mostly resol
ved, spicy red fruit. Elegant A-/B+

1999 Gallet Cote-Rotie
Not really a producer I’ve had experience with. A little more rusti
c, hint of barnyard, but nice solid core. Fun. B+/B

1996 Jamet Cote-Rotie
The two Jamets showed very similar, very classic profiles. Lots of bacon, o
live, herb. The ‘96 was maybe a touch lighter and higher acid, but  
only by a hair B+.A-
1998 Jamet Cote-Rotie
A tiny bit fuller, hint of merde, can’t say I liked one better than
 other. B+/A-
  
1998 Clape Cornas
Firm, full, dark berries, muscular style. B+

1999 Noel Verset Cornas
Olives and meat, lots of structure, dynamite but could use time. A-/B+

2000 Noel Verset Cornas
Seamless, just in a perfect place, elegant and classic,. A-

1998 Allemand “Reynard” Cornas
Big,meaty, a bit tight.  B+

This is as far as I got on notes last night. The final flight was 1994 Chav
e Hermitage, 1995 Chave Hermitage, and 1998 Chave Hermitage. All showed bea
utifully, with the 95 challenging the 00 Verset for my wine of the night. F
rom memory ‘94 A-/B+, 95 A-, 98 B+.  


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine,
 B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p
arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi
ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



Re: TN: Northern Rhones at Racines NYC
Ramon organized a group for a Northern Rhone dinner at Racines last night.  
Old friends, a few New Yorkers I hadn’t met before, and even one Rh
onehead down from Boston. Fun group, though as usual with a long table most
 of my interaction was with one side. Some back and forth about what was av
ailable a la carte, but I was happy with my duck crisp appetizer and cote d
e boeuf.  

MV Krug Grande Cuvee Lot 164
I was curious to try after all the hype. I’m not the biggest Krug f
an but this ‘08 base is touted as atypical. I thought the nose gorg
eous and complex, and it seemed more lithe than most Krug. Very good. But I
 have 2 bottles and couldn’t help thinking I could have bought 2 bo
ttles of Comtes instead and had money left over. B+

NV Benoit Lahaye “Violaine”  
A bit stern and austere at first, but I liked a lot more on revisit. Green  
apple and citrus, bright, low dosage. B+

The reds

1983 Jaboulet “Thalabert” Crozes-Hermitage
This smelled good when double-decanted about 3 (tons of fine sediment), but
 I was a little worried at first pour, there seemed to be a slight stewed n
ote. But it blows off leaving a nice wine. Good acid backbone, with a lot o
f those Thalabert meaty/mushroom notes. B+

1991 Ogier Cote-Rotie
Exotic nose , with spice and black olives. Mid-bodied, tannins mostly resol
ved, spicy red fruit. Elegant A-/B+

1999 Gallet Cote-Rotie
Not really a producer I’ve had experience with. A little more rusti
c, hint of barnyard, but nice solid core. Fun. B+/B

1996 Jamet Cote-Rotie
The two Jamets showed very similar, very classic profiles. Lots of bacon, o
live, herb. The ‘96 was maybe a touch lighter and higher acid, but  
only by a hair B+.A-
1998 Jamet Cote-Rotie
A tiny bit fuller, hint of merde, can’t say I liked one better than
 other. B+/A-

1998 Clape Cornas
Firm, full, dark berries, muscular style. B+

1999 Noel Verset Cornas
Olives and meat, lots of structure, dynamite but could use time. A-/B+

2000 Noel Verset Cornas
Seamless, just in a perfect place, elegant and classic,. A-

1998 Allemand “Reynard” Cornas
Big,meaty, a bit tight. B+

This is as far as I got on notes last night. The final flight was 1994 Chav
e Hermitage, 1995 Chave Hermitage, and 1998 Chave Hermitage. All showed bea
utifully, with the 95 challenging the 00 Verset for my wine of the night. F
rom memory ‘94 A-/B+, 95 A-, 98 B+.  

Quite the night. Not a single wine that I wouldn't have happily drunk any m
eal. Nice group, good time. The only downer was remembering what these used
 to cost.  

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine,
 B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p
arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi
ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Re: TN: Northern Rhones at Racines NYC
On 5/15/18 8:55 AM, DaleW wrote:
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I'm with you here. My wine friends love Krug. For me, only OK. The  
Tattinger is always better to me and sometimes more than 1/2 the price.
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My wife found these to be way to rustic and barnyardy for her.
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Love the herbaceous profile of the Jamet wines. Do have to keep them  
around for a while though. We have had the 1991's lately with great results.
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Re: TN: Northern Rhones at Racines NYC
On 5/15/18 8:55 AM, DaleW wrote:

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I'm with you, too.  The Krug style is just not my preferred style of
Champagne.  Lately, we've been gravitating to non-dosé BdB bottlings,
though some of the more lean Pinot Meunier-based wines have also
appealed.  It should be noted, however, that we don't go for the flavor
profile of aged Champagne.


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Wow, just wow!  What a marvelous lineup of wines.  Any one of those
would occupy a hallowed place on our table.  Nice notes, too, Dale.

Thanks!
Mark Lipton

--  
alt.food.wine FAQ:  http://winefaq.cwdjr.net

Re: TN: Northern Rhones at Racines NYC
On 5/15/18 11:44 AM, Mark Lipton wrote:
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My wife absolutely hates aged Champagne and we have a friend that keeps  
them (well cellared? and trots them out often. She usually refuses. I  
like them, however.

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