TN: Wines from Alentejo, Australia, St Estephe, and Madeira

Last night night I joined a charity tasting at Aquario in West Harrison. Th e wines of Paulo Laureano in Alentejo were featured, followed by some older wines from the cellar of the host and my friend Mark. Bread, cheese, and m eats were out when we arrived, an amuse of spiced sausage, I had a first co urse of very good sardines, followed by some (dry/chewy) pork & clams.

2014 Paulo Laureano Ema’s Vineyard This was the base white, a Verdelho, but I liked. An exotic musky edge alon g with a little grass, moderate acids, fresh and easy. B

2014 Paulo Laureano Alentejo Branco Reserve Somewhat oily texture, some oak notes, tropical fruit, a little flat and ro und, others liked more. B/B-

2012 Paulo Laureano Tinta Grosso Tannic, oak has a raw edge to it,some green notes, not my fave. B-/C+

2012 Paulo Laureano Touriga Nacional This is a little glossy and plush, but nicely put together in a mid-modern package. Black fruit, mocha, good length. B

2012 Paulo Laureano Vinea Julieta Reserva A blend of 3 indigenous grapes, lots of vanillin oak, smoke, red fruits. B

Followed by

1966 Ch. Montrose Many thought this tired, they’re crazy, Mature but not fading, cass is with leather and tobacco. Quite fine. A-/B+

1982 Penfolds Grange I’m usually a Grange skeptic, but this was quite lovely in a ripe/f ull throttle way. Concentrated black fruits, spice, a little baon. Moderate acids, tannins mostly resolved, good length. A-

1986 Henschke ‘Cyril Henschke” Cabernet Sauvignon Very sweet fruit, a little oxidation, tired. B-/C+

1986 Henschke Hill of Grace Blackberries, slightly stewed, lots of funky bretty notes. Storage? B- this bottle

1863 Blandy's Malmsey Solera Madeira A solera not vintage ,undercertain when bottled (host had more than 20 year s) but really quite lovely. Brilliant acids, toffee, nuts, citrus zest. Com plex and long. A-

Fun night, and money raised for some good causes

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.