Xmas holiday wines - Les Fort de Latour, Offerus, Beaune Marconnets, Gordons in Waltham

1995 Silverado Cabinet Sauvignon (two left) 1988 Chateaux de Beaune Beaune Marconnets. Last bottle from a case bought from the Wine Society in England 1990 Les Forts de Latour (half way through a case) 2000 Chave St. Joseph 'Offerus' (first from a case) 2000 Barbaresco Ovello Cantina de Pino (first from a case) 2004 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (second from a case) 1977 Gould Campbell Port (three bottles left) N.V. Verve Cliquot & Pol Roget.

Since some of these wines are from cases I have had open for several years, I asked myself the questions, 'How are these wines doing, are they getting better or worse?' I store them in my basement, nothing fancy.

The Silverado is holding up well. I've drunk several 1991 Cabinet Sauvignon's in the last couple of years, including Caymus & Clos du Val that were showing their age. In my experience, Californian Cabinet Sauvignon's don't get any better after five years, so anything pre

2000 can be drunk. Anything pre 1995 should be drunk.

Domaine du Chateaux de Beaune, Beaune Marconnets. 1988 was a good year. I've checked my notes on the other bottles, and it's clear this has gone downhill in the last few years. I can't afford the best Burgundys, so I think $30 Burgundy should be drunk within seven years or so of the vintage. It doesn't get better. I have some 1996's bought in Beaune and hand carried home - time to finish them.

1990 Les Forts de Latour. I like Fort de Latour. I've bought several vintages (70, 75, 90, 00). I like second wines, especially Fort, Reserve de Comtess & Carrudes de Lafitte. They are (or were) the best value for money in Bordeaux. This wine is fabulous. Big, complex, real. I have an unopened case of the 2000 to look forward to. I think this wine will last another 10 years, but I doubt it will get any better than it is now. I think I've been aging my Bordeauxs too long. The 88's I've had recently are showing their age. The 1995 Sociando Mallet for example (WS 91, but a bit of a disappointment) is definitely ready, so is the 96 La Lagune (WS 86 but much better) and the 1998 Calon Segur (WS 88, about right). The Wine Spectator describes the Calon Segur as 'best after 2005'. I think most middle rank Bordeaux's are accessible after five years, and get no better after seven. So time to drink up the 95's, open the 98's and think about the 2000's!

I'm really a Rhone fan. The 2000 Chave St. Joseph 'Offerus' is an interesting wine. A new offering from Chave, bought in grapes. I had a couple of bottles of the 1998 - fabulous. The 2000 is still a bit tight, lighter, not as good as the 98. I'm drinking the last of the

95's this year. I have almost finished a case of 1998 Louis Bernard Chateauneuf du Pape. Wine Spectator gave it a 92, but I've never thought it that good - more an 86. The 99 Chateauneuf's are ready to drink. I opened a 2001 Paul Autard Chateauneuf du Pape recently , also ready (WS 90 - at least that maybe better)

The Barbaresco Ovello 2000 ($30 from Gordons in Waltham, MA - WS 87), 'best after 2006'. Bold, jammy and ready now.

1977 Gould Campbell Port. I bought a case of this at the Berry Brothers & Rudd store at Heathrow Airport in 1990 (WS 93, $25 a bottle I think), and carried back as hand luggage. It's still going strong. Softer than the Warres 1991, my other Port. There seem to be fewer opportunities to enjoy Port these days.

These days I order most of my wine from Gordons in Waltham, MA. The wine buyer, David Raines, has a great palette, likes the same kind of wines as I do. They have an excellent selection, good prices. They email an offer per day. I tend to buy most of the good wine from these offers. Locally (Fairhaven, MA), pickings are thin, but Lee's Supermarket in Westport sells the Offerus ofr $20 by the case.

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