Tea Production Variables

I'm trying to figure out, in very general terms, what the variables in tea production are (e.g., not varieties of tea leaf or tea growing regions, and not brewing variables). For now, I am leaving Pu-er out of the picture, because that seems to add a seperate layer of complexity. From various sources, and especially Hou De's video on the manufacture of Formosa Oolong (easily found on You Tube), I have narrowed things down as follows:

  1. Tea is picked -- this can be mechanical, or hand-done, and can be done at several different times of year, or in different conditions, or at different stages of tea leaf growth. This variable is huge and there are a lot of parts to it.

  1. Withering -- to me, this looks like some sort of abbreviated drying process, where leaves are given lots of air and frequently "stirred". It can be done indoors or outdoors, but no heat other than sun is added. Tea still has significant moisture afterwards and the leaves remain very pliable. I really don't understand what this step does. It seems like this is almost a sub-step of the next variable.

  2. Fermentation -- I'm not sure I fully understand how this differs from withering, though it may be that the leaves are left in a pile and stirred less frequently (or not at all?). This does not appear to involve any particular heat sources. I would guess this step would be skipped in green or white tea production, because my understanding is that this step is what seperates oolongs and red/black tea from the green and white tea. Afterwards, I imagine the leaves still have a lot of moisture and are still very pliable. Degree of fermentation is a huge variable, but there are no other real additives in this step so this is a pretty easy variable to identify.

  1. "Kill-green" -- this can involve pan-frying or oven roasting (steaming seems unlikely given the overall goal of reducing moisture) but seems to be the first time that a heat source other than the sun is added to the mix. I would guess that the tea would have to reach a certain temperature to stop the fermentation process. From the Hou De video, it is apparent that the leaves can remain flexible after this process, though I've seen some other video on long jing production that seems to show a finished product after the kill-green step (maybe because this step combines the next steps into one for this particular tea?)

  2. Shaping/Further Drying -- after the kill green, the tea may still have moisture in it and the leaves may still be pliable. So I guess this is when leaves are twisted or rolled, and I imagine that shaping process is interspersed with various drying efforts that use some sort of heat sources. The variables here that may affect flavor or aging potential would be shape and perhaps the drying source (e.g., charcoal, electric heat?). I would guess the goal of all tea production is to reduce moisture levels to similar levels, no matter the tea, so extent of drying is probably not a variable here. Maybe speed of drying process and temperature are variables.

  1. Roasting? -- the Hou De video doesn't appear to show tea roasting, but tea roasting is clearly a factor in some tea production. I'm not sure what that process would do other than further reduce moisture and perhaps change the flavor somehow (I imagine you are basically cooking the tea, which would change the flavor of anything). The variables here would be similar to the drying variables above -- charcoal or electric heat, as well as temperature and time. Maybe the drying is a type of roasting.

I hope this doesn't repeat too much anything that has previously been posted. Seems like I never see this information in one place. If anyone has comments on the above steps in the form of additions/ subtractions/clarifications, I would be appreciative.

-Charles

Reply to
cha bing
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I'm by no means an expert and do not really understand all stages, but I'll try to add what I have heard/learned from others who are much more experienced in tea making....

I think generally speaking weather is extremely important for all stages. In picking, you're not supposed to pick if it's raining or if it just rained. Time of day when you pick is important. How you pick is important. Even how you use your hand to pick it is important (no squeezing, which bruises the tea). It's complicated...

Withering, afaik, is a step that allows for some oxidation to happen. You don't wither the tea if you want zero oxidation. Sun is often not added, from what I understand. Most of the time this is done indoors in a somewhat airy area - and again, weather plays a factor. How you place the tea, where you place it, how long do you let it go for, how you do the "stirring" are all very important. If you screw this step up, your oolong isn't going to be very good.

I think withering is where fermentation happens, but it can also happen in other stages too, for example during picking (woman with basket of tea that's laden with leaves, somewhat hot (under the sun and perhaps body heat), leaves are pretty much withering right away -- just a matter of speed and degree, like, say, a sliced apple. There's usually some oxidation in white tea too...

Leaves actually remain quite flexible after this process from what I understand. Oftentimes rolling takes place after this. For sencha, for example, you roll them very vigorously after steaming to induce the tea juices. From what I know that is also an extremely important step in shaping the taste of the tea -- different degrees of rolling will change the way things taste. There's machine and hand rolled, but there's also how much, how heavy, and how long. I don't understand this fully myself, but a tea that is lightly or not rolled at all, from what I have heard anyway, can be quite weird -- some puerhs these days are very lightly rolled because they want to preserve the big leaf shape, to the detriment of taste.

The rolling would've happened by the time you take it to the dryer, which can be the oven, sun, or whatever. It's just to reduce moisture to the point where the tea is more or less dry -- one measure is whether or not when you crush the leaf it becomes powdery or not. If it doesn't, then it's not dry enough. Makes sense.

I think cooking the tea is sort of what's going on -- and I think what happens is that by applying heat, some of the aromatics are changed or dissipated, and thus give the tea a different flavour. In some cases teas are smoked (Lapsang Souchong) where they use pine wood to smoke it and that's where it gets that distinctive flavour.

Again, caveat being that I am only a beginner in understanding this. Perhaps a tea grower can add to this discussion? It'll be very appreciated :)

MarshalN

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Reply to
MarshalN

Thanks for the responses. In looking at some of the other sources out there, including the wikipedia article (d'oh! I suppose I should have looked there first), I think the biggest factor I was missing is the "bruising" stage. This seems to be part of the oxidation process, along with withering. The oxidation process seems to be ongoing too. In fact, I think MarshalN must be right that oxidation happens from the moment a leaf is picked until the kill green stage. So maybe I can take an oversimplification and make it more simple by categorizing the process into even fewer steps as follows (with some variables sub- categorized):

  1. Harvest variables a. natural characteristics surrounding tea growth and harvest (e.g., weather, soil type, climate) b. how picked c. age and type of leaves

  1. Early bruising and drying variables a. degree of drying/withering b. method/degree of bruising

  2. Kill Green variables (method of kill green is only real variable here)

  1. Shaping variables a. method b. shape

  2. Roasting variables a. time and temperature b. heat source

I would imagine that all of these variables can be described for a particular tea based solely on the taste and visual inspection of leaves by an experienced tea drinker (if there are any professional tea purchasers out there who want to weigh in on that, I'd be grateful).

Charles

Reply to
cha bing

Ankit

Thanks for the great post:) It is really informative.

:)

Could you quote the source of the article? This article is very comprehensive, I mention it just in case somebody decided to quote it elsewhere and not quite sure who to attribute it to.

Also can I clarify that if the process refers to the making of ctc black tea?

Many thanks.

Julian

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Reply to
juliantai

Thank you so much, Ankit. That is a lot of great information, even if it doesn't really make my project simpler per se. In fact, I think your post has made me doubt even more my attempts to simplify the tea making process into simple discreet categories and limited variables. There is a lot of really vital information behind the most outer layer of the onion that I am trying to grasp. But posts like yours are invaluable to people like me, who are trying to understand how everything works without the benefit of being able to visit a tea plantation. I doubt I will ever be able to taste a tea and be able to tell whether there was a hard or soft wither in the process, but it all contributes to my appreciation of the beverage and I hope to continue understanding how tea is made. I think I will save your post and put it in a file somewhere.

Also, thanks to Julian Tai, whose web page has a good primer on the production of oolong tea, which is what I really had in mind when I made my initial post (because that is what I have been drinking lately). (see

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Reply to
cha bing

hi julian

i am happy that you liked the post - glad to be of help to people.

this process is generally for orthodox black (leaf) and ctc tea.

regarding the source - it is from many places - a couple of books and some info from my own brain.

if you want the names of all the books i would be really happy to give it to you.

regards ankit

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Reply to
Ankit Lochan

Glad that you found the article informative - i will try and write something more simpler for you soon.

Thanks

Reply to
Ankit Lochan

Thank you, again, Ankit. Your posts are so informative and very appreciated. I personally wish you'd start a blog (hint, hint!). Shen

Reply to
Shen

Ankit

Thanks for being so helpful :)

As a side line, it will actually be useful if you can share with us your favourite tea references, either here or in your blog.

There have been several threads on this subject before, but it will be great to know what a tea grower would read :)

Julian

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Reply to
juliantai

hi !

some of them are profiles of tea by prafulla goradia, tea by t.eden, tea culture, processing and marketing by m.jmulky and v.s.sharma, tea production and processing by barundeb bannerjee, the story of tea by e.jaiwant paul, tea the universal health drink by r.s.jhawar, the tea book by serena hardy, the heritage of indian tea by d.k.taknet, tea legend, life and livelihood of india by g.p.baroowah.

there are many more - these are the ones i find more orignal and informative.

regards ankit

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Reply to
Ankit Lochan

hi again,

i missed out this one - really an intresting one

the culture and marketing of tea by c.r.hurler.

regards

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Reply to
Ankit Lochan

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