Boiling The Malt

Mar 02, 2005 28 Replies

I've got corny kegs. Found I like bottles better. When hungry I like porter, when hot or thirsty a low alcohol ale is better. Bottles are easy to take along fishing and kayaking.

I only have to spend about an hour bottle washing. I wash bottles in the bottling bucket, so the bucket gets sanitized in the process - I drain the bucket through the bottling (and blow off for the next batch) and racking tubes so they get sanitized. The grains are steeping while that's happening, when I fill the bottles, the wort is heating (with an alarm that warns me before the hot break). During the boil the fermenter and bottling bucket is getting rinsed out.

Sipping beer listening to music the whole time. Works for me.

On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 17:03:33 -0500, default said in alt.beer.home-brewing:

Boy, does it happen. From what I've read, we started growing grains so that we could make beer more easily.

And you have a bottle of Bud handy? :)

No, nowhere near that good.

We start with Bud - weasel piss is about halfway between that and ambrosia.

On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 09:59:35 +1100, "Someone" said in alt.beer.home-brewing:

You boil the hops in the wort - the more wort you boil the better the beer is. But if the stuff in the tin's already boiled you don't have to. It's not as good as DME and boiling, but it's a way to make beer.

How many pints do you drink a day? :)

On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 19:16:03 -0500, default said in alt.beer.home-brewing:

Or the full 60 minutes for bitter (it's easier - no timing) and the last 15 minutes for flavor (just add to the bag).

Or you can just keep the coil moving up and down in the wort, using the temperature of the outlet to tell you if you're getting any cooling.

On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 09:44:31 +1100, "Someone" said in alt.beer.home-brewing:

But with a chiller it usually doesn't take more than 10 minutes or so to go from boiling to pitching.

You can pitch an ale yeast at 20 or a fraction higher - I wouldn't go above 21.5. But 3 hours is MUCH too long.

See if there's a home improvement type of place that can fix you up with fittings to go between copper tubing and garden hose threads. 10 meters or so of 12 mm (or whatever the standard size near that is) soft copper tubing is all you'll need. As long as your cold water isn't warm you should be able to cool 5 gallons faster much than you cooled your last batch.

For the boil, a turkey fryer is a cheap way to get both the cooker and the pot, and you can boil 6.5 gallons at once. And those things are a few hundred thousand BTU, so they bring a pot full of wort to the boil almost too quickly - you have to be careful it doesn't boil over. The thermometer that comes with them helps - at 97 or so, keep your eyes on the wort and your hand on the valve.

On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 09:46:43 +1100, "Someone" said in alt.beer.home-brewing:

Then the LME is almost certainly boiled for you.

Bottom line - if you like the beer you're making, you're doing it right for you.

true i have a 60 lt fermentator to make beers i like, and this small 23 lt to experiment.

"Someone" a écrit dans le message de news:

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It's not perfect (just translated it from french today so feel free to report any mistake) but it may give you a bit of help about some stupid mistakes not to make :

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-- Altair (:-o)>=® (supprimer/remove nospam@ pour répondre/to reply) Définition : Cellulaire : Appareil qui permet aux gens de croire qu'ils communiquent puisqu'ils parlent. Cellphone: Device that allow people to think they are communicating because they are talking.

On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 21:15:03 -0500, "Altair" said in alt.beer.home-brewing:

1) The translation is perfectly understandable. 2) You can bend copper tubing - you don't have to use elbows and soldering. 3) There are garden hose connectors that go on to the copper tubing without soldering. 4) IMPORTANT! Even though no beer goes through the copper, if you DO solder you should be using silver solder. Some of the solder comes in contact with the beer.

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