Barrel Fermentation of PN in NZ

Although barrel fermentation is more often associated with white wines, it is not unknown for reds and from what I've read is fairly common in Australia - maybe somebody from there can tell us if that's true. And secondary (malolactic) fermentation *usually* happens in the barrel.

- Mark W.

I'd like to know that too. I've never made Pinot Noir that way, and doubt that I would - but it might be right one year. I'm keeping my options open.

I like the idea of racking to barrel a little "dirty". That means including the light lees - perhaps not what you thought of when I said "dirty". ;^)

I'd venture to say that this is fairly _uncommon_ practice with Pinot Noir, which tends to struggle to achieve significant color - even in good vintages. The skin contact is sometimes prolonged _past_ dryness prior to pressing, and often also at the beginning, prior to inoculation (cold soaking).

That is common to both red and white wines. Optimum is to get most of that done before going into barrel (reds). Those of us who barrel ferment whites have little choice in this matter, except to use lysozyme - a practice I eschew, but don't condemn.

(I've tasted _great_ non-ML Chardonnay, but I'd be nervous about making one. It's not worth the headache.)

Tom S

I've had a few really nice non-ML Chards, and it's clearly something the winemaker really has to get dialed-in on through experience.

Flowers and El Molino are two examples that spring to mind of delightful non-ML Cal Chards. I recently had an '02 El Molino Chard from a 375ml, something Reg Oliver brought as a treat to a gathering, and it was a sharp reminder that the right fruit and right winemaker's touch can yield stellar results. Getting reasonably ripe fruit with exactly the right acid balance up-front and preserving that balance throughout vinification seems to be the trick. Another non-ML Cal Chard I think of is Scott Chafen's Dutch Henry; it can be *really* pretty stuff in the right year.

The more I think about it, it's sort of ironic how well Cal Chard can lend itself to non-ML and yet how fixated the wineries seem to be on buttery confections.

Dana

Wait a minute. It's entirely possible to have a Chardonnay go full ML and _not_ display any particularly noticeable diacetyl. If the wine is on its lees and stirred occasionally the butter disappears - or so I'm told.

And so I've tasted.

Tom S

Here's a list of some Cal Chards w/o malo (and a couple of related articles):

I know that several winemakers here in California rack their Syrah to barrel before the primary fermantation is completely through, and that this is in emulation of practice in Australia. As far as I know it's not widely practiced here - I don't know how extensive that practice is in Australia. But I've never heard of this being done with Pinot Noir before.

Obviously, we can't argue over what's actually in the glass, but I can't help but believe that once a flavor component is in a wine, it stays there unless it's somehow removed. If an ML fermentation produces diacetyl, then the flavor will be present. Perhaps it's the case that the lees are used to remove the diacetyl in a kind of fining? Perhaps also the specific Chardonnay clones that are used have an impact as well.

Dana

According to my reading, diacetyl production and retention thereof in ML fermentation is enhanced by (1) conducting the ML fermentation _after_ the alcoholic fermentation, as opposed to concurrently, and (2) the absence of yeast and ML lees during aging. Conversely of course, to permit ML to occur while minimizing the production and retention of diacetyl one does the opposite: ML fermentation simultaneously with the alcoholic fermentation, and sur lie aging.

Perhaps also the specific Chardonnay clones

Apparently so - but in a less direct manner than I inferred from your comment. Some clones of Chardonnay evidently tend to produce a higher ratio of malic to tartaric acid than others. The Martini clone may run up to ~40% malic (of the total acid present), whereas the Dijon clone may be only 10% malic. Guess which one is capable of more profound butteriness? Of course those numbers are approximate, and may well represent extremes between warm climate Martini and cool climate Dijon clones, but you get the idea.

Tom S

It's my understanding that if you let the ML bacteria keep going after all the malic acid has been consumed, they will metabolize the diacetyl as well and "butteriness" is correspondingly decreased. Winemakers who want to maximize diacetyl jack up the sulfites as soon all the malic acid is gone. FWIW, Sierra Vista (El Dorado County) makes a nice no-oak, no-MLF Chardonnay that should be available for $12 or so.

- Mark W.