Cabernet Notes

May 16, 2004 9 Replies

All wines in this blind tasting were supposed to be at least 75% cabernet.


2000 Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris - not too hard to figure out the varietal, that it was a BC wine and which winery as I'd had the 2001 a couple of days earlier. This one is showing a good varietal nose, with some complexity, and good clean acidity. It is at peak now, and seemed a tad better than the 2001.


1977 Wolf Blass Black Label - from the host, and starting off by violating the rules as it is 60% cab and 40% shiraz in that vintage. Mellow sweet nose with none of the horse sweat one can see in old Hunter Valley wines. Well balanced and long, it belied its age - we figured it to be in the mid 80s!


1981 Mondavi Reserve - interesting as I've been tasting some old ones lately, though not this vintage. Sweet mature cherry nose, fair bit of tannin, and lots of acid. The fruit is dropping out of this one and it would have been better several years ago.


1985 Buena Vista Private Reserve Cab (Carneros) - excellent depth and development in the nose, and some sweetness, dark fruit and good length. Perfect drinking now.


1990 Hess Collection - rubber, tar and licorice nose, fair bit of tannin, good fruit - will not improve.


1990 Santa Cruz Mountain Bates Ranch - salty low tide seaweed nose with some dill in it. Medium bodied, bright with a dry finish, the fruit coming in late at the end.


1986 Haut Bages Liberal - not the first time I've been fooled by this vintage recently. After years of being harder than hard, it seems to be coming around quite quickly. The vanilla and plum nose was an instant give-away to it being a Bordeaux, and while it seemed leaner in comparison to the Cal-Cabs, it was well integrated and drinks well. I think it will continue to drink well for quite a few years, but if you have it (I was pleased to find that I did), you can start enjoying it now.


1995 Gallo Stephani Vd. Cabernet - a ripe hot climate nose carried through some of the heat to the palate. High in both tannins and acidity, the wine showed as lacking fruit with nowhere to go from here.


1997 Torres Mas La Plana Black Label - mellow sweet well integrated nose, simple and straight forward in the mouth and it dropped off a bit quickly on the finish. I am probably in the minority, but I think they made a mistake when they dropped the small amounts of Ull de Llebre and Cabernet Franc they used to blend into the wine in the pre 1980 or so period. Don't believe me? Taste the
1978 some time!


2001 Montes Alpha Cabernet - the nose of mint and pepper seemd very slightly cooked and there was a candied impression to the wine. Soft, with fairly low acidity. I have had much better bottles of this, so we were seeing a bit of bottle variation or the results of poor handling.


2001 Hollick Coonawara Cab-Merlot - always interesting to taste a new (to me) producer for the first time. Sweet forward nose of currant fruit with a hint of coffee. Not much tannin, clearly made for early drinking, the fruit sweet and pleasant on palate. Very nice.


1986 Smith Woodhouse LBV Port - lots of heat , a big silky feel in the mouth, and good length. Lots of weight for an LBV.



Bill, is there a producer on this? I think there is a Santa Cruz Mtn Vineyard, but I thought they were PN. When I see Bates RanchI think of Thunder Mountain and I think Ahlgren (sp?). Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

No, they are old time cab producers.

Agreed, Bill. The '77 and '78 were standout wines of a quality that I've yet to see from subsequent vintages. Granted, I haven't had the chance to try every year, but later versions seem simpler and far less ageworthy.

Mark Lipton

Very interesting, Bill. This wine, btw, is the only one I ever bought a format larger than a magnum: A double magnum. (I own a few Austrian red 1992s that were gifts from growers for my second marriage in this year. The two 1985s in double magnum offered to me as a gift for my son's birth year were drunk on my 50th last summer: Barolo Marchesi di Barolo, and Pommery vintage.)

Since it's resting at a permanent 10°C (50°F) since release, I guess it'll need another 10 years or so - what do you think?

M.

I would certainly think so given the format!

These 86s were hard (some were very hard) when young and I pretty much stopped tasting them for a number of years, figuring that they would almost all need many more years of age.

As I have been fooled several times recently, when various 86s showed softer and more approchable than I had anticipated, I now take every chance I get to try other people's bottles so as to gauge the best drinking time for mine!

I'm doing a pretty decent tasting of 1989 Bordeaux next week, and it will be interesting to see what they are doing, although I've been keeping a closer eye (lip?) on them as both the 89 and 90s have been quite inviting (the 88s have been a bit harder/leaner)

Bill Have some 89's, so look forward with interest

John

78 a stunner. They used to available from the big chains, but I have not seen a bottle for years.

The Wine Soc and Tanners do not list it. Had a search, the oldest is 83 from the Croque En Bouche in Malvern @ GBP40 More recent vintages at 20-25 a bottle.

JT

Thanks Bill, just wanted to be sure I knew what wine you were reporting on. Thanks for the notes.

I must say I find these wineries with the same names as AVAs confusing. Alexander Valley, etc. Not to mention the whole Stags/Stag's/Stags' imbroglio.

Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Thanks a lot!

Sorry for being late, but a three-day wine trip to Makedonia and a few tastings/dinners (yesterday evening translating Eric Getten, the Lafite Group's commercial director, commenting a Lafite Group evening in Salzburg - 11 wines finishing on Lafite 99, 95 and 83 [the former two young, but fabulous, 83 clearly less good, although quite OK]) prevented me from answering earlyer.

M.

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