Just returned from a very pleasant interlude in Durango CO. (Yes, I rode the train.) Had a several excellent meals, including two nights at Ariana's Italian which may boast the best veal scallopine presentations west of NYC, a tour of Asian-eclectic/American traditional at Ken & Sue's (imagine meatload, maple-mustard glazed NY strip, nori-wrapped lobster/avocado rolls, and a variety of soy, lemon-grass, wasabi-enhanced, Szechuan/Hunan/Mandarin concoctions.)
The big night was a French shot at Chez Grandmere--a delightful small house near the train depot, decorated in country French and offering some very traditional French cuisine executed perfectly (if a bit overly salted.)
The wine list at Grandmere got them a WS Award of Excellence, probably because of the availability of things like a DRC 1985 burg at $5975/bottle!
There were a number of great Bordeaux offerings and I'm not one to pass up an opporunity to explore. With duck breast and lingonberry/red-wine reduction for me and "rack" of lamb (actually two chops) with port-wine sauce for SWMBO, a bordeaux seemed reasonable. The waiter (who was otherwise incredibly competent and knowledgeable) provided little assistance when I asked for advice in choosing between a '99 Baron Pichon-Longuiville and a '00 Chateau Lascombes which were in my price range and separated by $10.
He went to the chef/owner and returned pronouncing the Lascombes as definitely superior due to the vintage. I didn't get to meet or talk to the recommendor. (I'm sure Ian, Dale, Michael and others will agree that is a faux pas.)
The wine was nice (applying the adjective as an underwhelming comment), but I simply don't get the value of the French over a California cab. There was a nice color, a pleasant nose and a warm, but not huge dark berry flavor. A bit of tannin pucker on the finish, but not a harshness of immaturity. It wasn't an unpleasant wine, by a long shot, but it simply didn't impress as something remarkable or memorable. A '00 Cakebread Cellars cab that I'd had a couple of months before for $40/bottle less was much more impressive, as was a Shaffer cab that I'd enjoyed in June.
What am I missing or is it simply a question of the Bordeaux needing a lot more years before it really begins to display something?
Ed Rasimus Fighter Pilot (USAF-Ret) "When Thunder Rolled" "Phantom Flights, Bangkok Nights" Both from Smithsonian Books
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