Lunch at the UBC Wine Research Centre

Another interesting lunch at the UBC Wine Research Centre on Friday.

2001 La Frenz Viognier - as the facility does deal with BC wineries, I felt that we were obliged to maintain a certain level of BC content. Melon and citrus nose, nicely balanced, tasty wine with scallops and prawns.

1993 Estancia Meritage - a blend of 65% cab sauv, 25% cab franc, and 10% merlot, this is the second wine in a week that I have tasted that is a super value, in that it transcends its price point (The other was a Beringer Knight's Valley). This Alexander Valley Meritage was big and minty, but was also mellow and well balanced. I recall the 1994 even being slightly better, but this was very good.

1997 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano Riserva - surprisingly, this was showing some age in terms of colour, with pale and slightly bricky edges. Some cherry and coffee in the nose and a soft attractive middle with soft tannin. Pleasant wine that I think will be most enjoyable drunk in the near term.

1986 Cuvaison Napa Cabernet - Doug Russell, the current president of the Vancouver American Wine Society had come as my guest to make the acquaintance of the very well equipped research centre, and I knew that he is a fan of older American cabs in general and knows this winery in particular, so I pulled this out of my cellar to try and stump him. The nose was more muted than I'd have liked, eventually showing some dusty mint, and there was a bit of heat on palate, but all of the elements of this wine were in harmony with nothing 'sticking out'. Pleasant mature California cab.

1991 Shafer Hillside Select - Glad I didn't have to follow this monster! The Hillside is always a big brute, and one I very much enjoy (I was lucky enough to drink the 1999 the following night!). Still a big purple robe, with a sweet dark fruit nose with some stony elements, a big sweet wine on palate, and good length. Although Doug commented that he wouldn't normally open something of this style and age except for (ahem) academic purposes, the wine was drinking absolutely beautifully, and I dare say it is reaching what will be a long plateau of drinkability. This would be a hard one to keep one's hands off!

2001 Colvin Vineyards Spofford Station Syrah - I am becoming an aficionado of BC and Washington Syrah, and this wine was a very pleasant discovery. Made in relatively small amounts by an ex-chemist in a small winery near Walla Walla, it showed a big sweet bretty nose, with horse sweat (well OK, maybe warm leather). It really came across more as a ringer for a Southern Rhone than a Northern one, but for $25 US, it is a killer value and good one to pull in blind tastings. Of course the fact that the guy who brought it is notorious for thinking the sun rises and sets over the Rhone River didn't hurt his chances of fooling us, and it took awhile before we headed for New World possibilities.

2000 Dom. Clape Cotes du Rhone - we thought we'd seen bret before, but this was absolutely rife with the stuff! In fact Hennie Van Vuuren, head of the centre, says he uses it to show people what Brettanomyces smells like. Made from 100% Syrah, this was nicely placed after the Washington State example. Dark and viscous in appearance, sweet attack, acidity at end and then soft tannin kicks in right at the very end. Nice cheese wine.

We only had time for a cursory peek at the labs and ranks of gas chromatographs as the time had somehow passed unnoticed and it was after 3 PM with places to go and things to do, but we will return!!

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Bill Spohn
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