Notes from a dinner with John Taverner, visiting from scenic Solihull.
Gosset NV Champagne - decent fizz as always, with some interest in both nose and on palate. Served on it's own while reconnoitering the garden before dinner.
1996 Chateau-Chalon - a Jura wine made from Savagnin, and only about the third time I've tasted this. From Dom. Berther-Boudet, in the traditional 62 cl. bottle. Fino sherry nose, smooth and quite thick in the mouth. Interesting wine.1993 Ch. De Beaucastel Vielles Vignes Roussanne - Parker likes this - 96 points and I do too. Amber colour, and a beguiling butterscotch and lemon nose rather than the more floral sort these show when younger. Smooth in the mouth with excellent length. With time it develops an interesting smokiness in the nose.
Served with white asparagus wrapped in smoked goose breast slices.
1999 Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Heimbourg - typical lychee nose, but not over the top as some ZH wines tend to be. Peaches as well, and good length - great with the tarte l'oignon topped with melted Gruyere.1989 Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches - no flies on this one - mellow nose and elegant fruit - the only slightly jarring note was the high acidity - until you bit into the truffled duck terrine and all your reservations dissolved as the acidity melded with the food.
1989 Jadot Beaune Clos des Ursules - another excellent wine, but on this occasion the slightly stinky nose and less forward fruit relegated it to second place, although the balance was admittedly better. It also finished a tad short. It improved with airing but never overtook the Drouhin.1976 Ch. Mouton Rothschild - always my favourite over the lackluster 78 and 79. It has a nice mature Bordeaux nose with dark fruit and vanilla, and was smooth on palate, finishing with some soft tannin. My last bottle, alas.
1989 Ch. Latour - there was some excellent depth in the nose of this still firm wine - cedar, currant and maybe a hint of spice. It is showing much better than it was about 3 years ago, but it still has a long way to go before it peaks. I'd give it another 3-4 years before popping a cork. This isn't a classic Latour like 1970 or 1982, but it was very good.With ribeye with shallot/Dijon/cream sauce and asparagus with Gremolata
Finally, with cheese:
1982 Grahams Malvedos - I had recalled this as more forward than the 86, but it was a rangy brute. Warm sweet (but not as sweet as the usual Grahams) nose, and not hot. More acidity than the vintage Port usually displays. If you still have older vintages, I'd leave this one a few more years.