Taverner Sucks them up in Vancouver

Jun 15, 2004 5 Replies

Notes from a dinner with John Taverner, visiting from scenic Solihull.



Gosset NV Champagne - decent fizz as always, with some interest in both nose and on palate. Served on it's own while reconnoitering the garden before dinner.


1996 Chateau-Chalon - a Jura wine made from Savagnin, and only about the third time I've tasted this. From Dom. Berther-Boudet, in the traditional 62 cl. bottle. Fino sherry nose, smooth and quite thick in the mouth. Interesting wine.


1993 Ch. De Beaucastel Vielles Vignes Roussanne - Parker likes this - 96 points and I do too. Amber colour, and a beguiling butterscotch and lemon nose rather than the more floral sort these show when younger. Smooth in the mouth with excellent length. With time it develops an interesting smokiness in the nose.



Served with white asparagus wrapped in smoked goose breast slices.


1999 Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Heimbourg - typical lychee nose, but not over the top as some ZH wines tend to be. Peaches as well, and good length - great with the tarte l'oignon topped with melted Gruyere.


1989 Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches - no flies on this one - mellow nose and elegant fruit - the only slightly jarring note was the high acidity - until you bit into the truffled duck terrine and all your reservations dissolved as the acidity melded with the food.


1989 Jadot Beaune Clos des Ursules - another excellent wine, but on this occasion the slightly stinky nose and less forward fruit relegated it to second place, although the balance was admittedly better. It also finished a tad short. It improved with airing but never overtook the Drouhin.


1976 Ch. Mouton Rothschild - always my favourite over the lackluster 78 and 79. It has a nice mature Bordeaux nose with dark fruit and vanilla, and was smooth on palate, finishing with some soft tannin. My last bottle, alas.


1989 Ch. Latour - there was some excellent depth in the nose of this still firm wine - cedar, currant and maybe a hint of spice. It is showing much better than it was about 3 years ago, but it still has a long way to go before it peaks. I'd give it another 3-4 years before popping a cork. This isn't a classic Latour like 1970 or 1982, but it was very good.

With ribeye with shallot/Dijon/cream sauce and asparagus with Gremolata



Finally, with cheese:


1982 Grahams Malvedos - I had recalled this as more forward than the 86, but it was a rangy brute. Warm sweet (but not as sweet as the usual Grahams) nose, and not hot. More acidity than the vintage Port usually displays. If you still have older vintages, I'd leave this one a few more years.

As a matter of fact he would have been satisfied with just the dinner, had I not mentioned that when you dropped by we were also planning on doing a Gavroche lunch. As a result of not wanting to miss anything you would experience, we arranged an impromptu lunch today (and I have another one on Friday - my poor aching liver).

But then he did carry the Latour and Ch-Chalon all the way with him, so how could I deny him the experience?

BTW, I took him to task for not getting over the channel to visit you when they live so relatively close.

I find white asparagus, particularly in concert with the smokiness of the goose breast, much less a problem with wines than one would think. It goes well with anything from Champers to more strongly flavoured wines like these.

Yes, both Beaunes were with the terrine, which indeed had just about every part of the duck EXCEPT the liver.

Yes - I sautee shallots, deglazed with brandy, add a great dollop of mustard and some chopped capers and an embarrassing amount of cream and then reduce it. It has worked well for me with claret.

Please offer my congratulations to your lady at her upcoming celebration, and be sure to post notes on the wines.

Now I have to go and find some claret to give to John for blind tasting at lunch.

Salut/Hi Bill,

le/on 15 Jun 2004 14:06:28 GMT, tu disais/you said:-

Ah... a grave (pun intentional) error.

Well, no decent and right minded fellow could, of course.

Thanks. Quite a number of our afw friends have come (mainly from the USA) and, to date. no one has grumbled too much, although we don't aspire to Spohnish levels.

(Ch Chalon)

Well, d'you know, although I've often read of the difficulty of matching asparagus, seeing it compared with artichoke hearts for winekilling ability, I have never really found it to be true. However, one hesitates to cast doubt on the accumulated wisdom of so many great tasters. _MY_ asparagus is green, which I do prefer, it must be said, but I've served it plain with many different sauvignons (with or without semillon) without any problems, with the aforementioned alsace wines and it was fine, and even with very light reds. I do an asparagus and blue cheese quiche (I think I've posted the recipe) which stretches small quantities of asparagus for 6 or 8, and that goes with any quiche friendly wine. My worry over Ch Chalon is that it's SO different and SO powerful that it has a tendancy to overpower anything that's served with it. If any wine is an acquired taste, that is. I love it.

I can imagine it very well. Actually I think the mustard would help as well.

With pleasure.

Poor chap.

It resembles nothing so much as Fino sherry in the nose and also to a degree on palate, and that works surpassingly well with this sort of food.

I have about half the bottle left and as I am doing my regular Friday monthly lunch (it has been a trying week for the old liver), I think I'll take it to show them.

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