three disappointing Christmas wines

As is our usual tradition, we barbacued a turkey with wet wood chips smoking in the fire. Also on the menu was roasted asparagus, yams, a medium Lundberg rice mix, salad with balsamic vinigarette dressing, and cranberry mold for those who partake of that. We had shrimp, cheese, vegetables, and hummus as finger food while people were gathering. In prior years, the fave was a zinfandel (the

1999 Ravenswood old vine zinfandel was a standout); we also served a white for those who wanted it, and opened with a Frexinet brut just so we could have some bubbles to celebrate with.

This time we started the finger food with a Zardetto Procecco Brut from Italy, figuring it would be a step up from the black bottle we often have. I'm not much of a champaigne expert, partly because I'm the only one that drinks in our family, and an entire bottle of bubbly is a hair too much at one sitting (or even two). I was hoping however for an nice change.

Well, it was a change.

Upon pouring, the bubbles were very aggressive in the glass, though they were somewhat less so once we got to drinking it. As I wasn't concentrating on rating the wines, I can't supply very detailled notes, but I found it to be merely passable; the flavors seemed unbalanced to me. And if it's only passable, why not just open the black bottle?

For the white wine at the meal I opened a 2006 Bodegas Valdesil Montenovo Godello which was featured in this month's wine club. My notes at the tasting were: Bright fruity nose, crisp and spicey in back (sharp and fast attack) with a soft finish. I tasted it again at the wine store and tried to imagine it with the turkey and decided to give it a shot. I suppose I should have noted that it had a similarity to pinot grigio, which I am not all that fond of, but at the time I found it interesting enough to buy. It did not go all that well with the food; upon reflection it wanted a softer wine, if we were to go with a white. Which I don't usually.

The wine club also featured a Cabernet Franc this month and I tried it again. I like Cabernet Franc, and this one (Cosentino's "The Franc") is a nice one, though it's still a bit tannic. A few years may soften it. I thought it might go nicely, but when I tasted it again before Christmas at the wine store, I decided instead to open last month's Cotes du Rhone. It's a 2006 Moillard "Les Violettes", and although it sounds like infanticide, my notes at the store were: dark round fruit on the nose, soft, light on the palate, almost thin, dry finish. It did not seem to me something that time would do much with. On the bottle it said "Negociant-Eleveur a Nuits-St-George (Cote d'Or) France", which near as I can make out, means "the bloke that made this wine is a big wheel in Cote d'Or". Or something. My French isn't all that good.

Anyway, the wine was too thin for the meal. I really thought this one would work out, so it's especially disappointing. I guess smoked barbacued turkey really needs a more hefty wine, and my original tradition of a Zinfandel is a better match (and maybe the Cab Franc would have worked well).

But that's the world of wine. If everything works out well, you aren't trying enough different things. :)

Jose

Reply to
Jose
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Nice report, but sorry you didn't like wines more.

"Negociant-Eleveur a Nuits-St-George (Cote d'Or) France", means that Moillard bought already fermented wine, but did the elevage (aging in cask). So you have a Rhone wine that was raised in Burgundy. Not something you see every day.

Reply to
DaleW

Well, there's more of this than one might suspect. You see the big tanker trucks pulling up to faceless rundown coops in the Rhone valley. There are many of these. I reported recently on one in Puymeras, where IIRC 90% of the wine (and there's lots) is shipped off this way. They don't know or care what happens to it afterwards.

Then the wine is pumped into big steel tanks somewhere near Beaune (usually), blended with other lots, and bottled in a big factory. It's a very romantic side of the wine industry, (worth remembering for those who insist that a cork adds so much romance...)

2006 CdR is in the vast majority of cases just fine to drink now, only wines made in a certain style will benefit from aging. Most CdR is made to drink young.

Thanks for the notes and I commiserate also about the lack of success -- these things happen, for sure.

One question: You write "champaigne" referring to the Italian bubbly. This is the second time I've seen this spelling of "champagne." What's it all about? A trade trick to keep using the otherwise illegal place name? An americanization? Just wondering. Next time if you want a nice bubbly at a reasonable price, you might try looking for a cremant de Loire. There are many, they are often very pleasant, sometimes great too.

-E

Reply to
Emery Davis

France", which near as I can make out, means "the bloke that made this wine is a big wheel in Cote d'Or". Or something. My French isn't all that good.

I always thought that the place name had to do with the terroir and stuff like that. Does this mean that I can get a tanker of plonk from Nebraska, ship it to Avignon, let them (romantically) put the cork in, and have Chateauneuf du Pape?

I can't spell worth crap. Nothing more. :) However, a word remarkably similar to my attempt at spelling that region of France is sometimes used in America as a generic word for sparkling wine, despite France's objections.

Jose

Reply to
Jose

Jose wrote in news:%1Qcj.81494$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr12.news.prodigy.net:

No, you would have Nebraska wine bottled in Avignon much the same as your Cote Du Rhone is bottled well north of and a bit west of the CdR area.

Reply to
Joseph Coulter

that. Does this mean that I can get a tanker of plonk from Nebraska, ship it to Avignon, let them (romantically) put the cork in, and have Chateauneuf du Pape?

Not quite! All the tanks that go into the blend have to have wine that comes from Cotes du Rhone, theoretically, in order to call it CdR. In fact it is very difficult to prove this, which is why cheap Burgundy used often to have some CdR in it. Now I've heard tell of blending down with vats from the Herault, or even Algeria. With all those big steel silo tanks, who can tell? So, I don't know Moillard and so can't cast aspersions on him, but clearly there's lots of room for trickery in this situation. And in the best of worlds, no way to tell much about the terroir of what's in the bottle: it might come from many very different terroirs. Also, I think although Dale is right about cask aging in practice this sort of elevage comes down to simple blending and bottling.

So, you could buy a bunch of bulk wine that is classified Chateauneuf du Pape, ship it to Nebraska, blend and bottle it there, and sell it as CdP. (OK, no idea about whether it can leave France :) But certainly to any French address.) Plenty of CdP is bottled this way in Bourgogne and elsewhere. But it does have to start out (theoretically!) as CdP to end up with an AOC on the label.

similar to my attempt at spelling that region of France is sometimes used in America as a generic word for sparkling wine, despite France's objections.

I'm with you! :) But it sounds as if folks are trying to get around the WTO legislation.

-E

Reply to
Emery Davis

Ok. I just had it backwards. Thanks. :)

Jose

Reply to
Jose

from Cotes du Rhone,

From what I have read, CdR (and CdP) both are highly variable. Wouldn't this tend to make the designation rather limited in usefulness?

Jose

Reply to
Jose

from Cotes du Rhone,

tend to make the designation rather limited in usefulness?

Well, I guess it depends on your point of view. Certainly to call CdR a terroir is not particularly meaningful, because it's much too vast. It comprises many terroirs. CdP has maybe 3 or 4 different terroirs. However within each AOC there are rules that govern the blend of grapes, vine age, vinification etc. If the negoc buys wine and then blends or ages it, he will none the less benefit from these rules. If he (or she) is very good he may know about the terroirs the various juice comes from, and be able to bring out those elements that are of interest. In the case of CdP, one or more of the known terroirs of the appellation may be prevalent.

However, to really explore terroir you have to (more times than not, and in my opinion) explore individual farmer/winemakers. If, for example, you buy a Cairanne from Richaud, you have that part of the terroir of Cairanne that he farms, blends and bottles; not wine that comes from all over the place.

-E

Reply to
Emery Davis

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