Sunday Fred and I went to Cathleen’s place in Bronxville for a grea t evening of St. Amour. Her friend Xavier Barbet was there with a collectio n of his family’s wines dating back 50 years. We started with the 1
997 “Les Vieux Murs” Pouilly-Fuisse Caveau Reserve (mag) - I believe this is a negoce wine, and I didn’t actually see Barbet, Loren, or Billards on label. But this was pretty amazing for 20 year old M acon- fresh, minty, pear and vanilla. This would be great as a ringer in a Ramonet tasting. B+
On to the reds (with charcuterie)
2015 Domaine des Billards Saint-Amour Ripe and tannic, this is a big boy that needs some time. B for now, lots of potential
2014 Domaine des Billards Saint-Amour I’ve had a lot of this, but this is pretty closed up right now. You can sense the fresh acidity and the berry fruit, but let this sleep. B- fo r drinking now, but I think it will emerge as a B+
2011 Domaine des Billards Saint-Amour Most complete at moment, spicy, black fruits. There’s some tannin, but it’s pretty open. B+/A-
2009 Clos des Billards Reserve Saint-Amour Big, dark fruits, tannic, needs more time but very good. B+/A-
2005 Clos des Billards Reserve Saint-Amour Beautiful, complete, black cherries and spice, smoked meat, full but elegan t. A-
2003 Clos des Billards Reserve Saint-Amour Far better than I expected. There’s some roasted/surmaturite notes, but there is an acid backbone, and a nice peppery/herby edge. 2003 was the vintage the big publications called “best Beaujolais vintage? ? when what they meant was “best for people who hate Beaujolais ”, but this is one 2003 that turned out ok. B
There was a delicious mushroom tart somewhere in here (Cathleen thought it had sat too long, but I enjoyed)
2000 Clos des Billards Reserve Saint-Amour Red cherries, smoke, balanced and lovely. A-/B+
1999 Clos des Billards Reserve Saint-Amour I’m a sucker for ‘99 Beaujolais, and this delighted me. Pur e, focused, with red cherry and plum fruit, spicy, long and elegant. A-/A
1995 Clos des Billards Reserve Saint-Amour Earthy, a little animal, red fruits., nice. B+ Steve’s boeuf Bourguignon was a tasty accompaniment.
1969 Clos des Billards Reserve Saint-Amour Red fruit, a little lifted at first, most people’s fave of this fli ght I think, tasty and mature. B/B+
1967 Clos des Billards Reserve Saint-Amour Red fruit, sandalwood, mocha. Xavier said this and the ‘76 were bot h low acid vintages, but both seemed bright to me. A-
1976 Clos des Billards Reserve Saint-Amour Earth, smoke, red cherry, herby. Delicious A-
Just a revelatory night. I like old wines, but I wasn’t making any excuses- I don’t think anyone would find the wines from the 60s and 70s the least bit tired. What a value in the modern wine world. Xavier and Carrie (export manager) were delightful and informative (Xavier spoke on e ach vintage about weather, harvest time, etc). Cathleen and Steve were grea t hosts, and the other guests pleasant and insightful. I need to buy more B illards.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.