TN: Haut Bailly vertical, plus CSH, Huet, and Saves rose

4 good geeks gathered Tuesday night at the Columbus Circle outpost of Maiso n Kayser. We shared salmon and duck rilletes, everyone got boeuf bourguigno n for their main.

1995 Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune Riesling Jay cracked me up with his statement “I’ll bring a Schrodin gers white. It both is and is not premoxed until I open it.” I was guessing 2002 Loire, but when I saw the CSH it made even more sense. We hit the jackpot this time, lovely pristine bottle. Grapefruit, green apple, a nd a little tropical fruit, but this is driven by racy acids and mineral no tes. Great tension- well-balanced, long, gorgeous. What a shame it’ s like a lottery. A-/A

1985 Huet Le Mont Demi-Sec Vouvray The sugar has integrated/faded enough this comes across more as a sec. Wax, wool, quince, and a (dry) honey note. Good acids, modest length. Tasty if not profound by Huet standards. B+

NV Camille Saves Rose Champagne As always, lovely balanced pink bubbly. B+

On to the main event, a little vertical of a fave Graces producer

2001 Ch. Haut-Bailly That rich sweet ‘01 fruit, Quite young but I think this is promisi ng. Black plum fruit, tobacco, gunflint. B+

1989 Ch. Haut-Bailly Rich, tertiary notes just emerging, will get even better. A-/B+

1988 Ch. Haut-Bailly Pretty classic Graves, tobacco and earth over cassis fruit. Still some rath er stern tannin, this is a steak wine. B+

1979 Ch. Haut-Bailly Lovely nose of cigarbox over red and black currant, bright, full, those bri ght 79 acids. A-

1978 Ch. Haut-Bailly Little bit of brett, leaner fruit than the 78, nicely balanced. B+

1971 Ch. Haut-Bailly Corked. Too bad.

Fun night. With the exception of the ‘71 cursed by the Portugese Me nace, every wine showed well. Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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DaleW
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