TN: I host SOBER- Burgs, Champagne, CA, Piedmont, Tuscany, Abruzzo

Thursday it was my turn to host SOBER. Betsy had a dinner plan with her sis ter, but made the main course the night before, and did a lot of prep that afternoon. A nice group (SOBERites plus a fill-in from my Bordeaux group) g athered and met the hound pup. I had some snacks waiting as they arrived: l onza, bresaola, pate, white anchovies, and cheeses (McGrath Victoria, Jaspe r Hill Bayley Hazen, Ossau Iraty, and Montgomery Cheddar).

(not blind)

1990 Pol Roger Winston Churchill Champagne Full and toasty,good acids, apples and hazelnut. One person thought this a bit advanced, I didn’t but while I enjoyed it wasn’t the wo w wine I expected and hoped for. B+

NV Marie Courtin Efflorescence (Nov ‘13 disgorgement) Dry and crisp, I liked but took no notes or real notice, was busy with next flights and food (and supplying the Bassett with a bone)

On to the blind flights, one white, four reds.

1988 Jadot (Duc de Magenta) “Clos de la Garenne” Puligny-Mo ntrachet 1er Cru Chris immediately called white Burgundy, but initial guesses were Chablis ( and much younger). Beautifully integrated oak, crisp acids and a real miner al core, good length. B+

1986 Ponsot “Clos des Monts Luisants” Morey St. Denis Vieil les Vignes Also guesses were younger, around 2004, once in white Burgundy I had fun nu dging people north into CdN and then revealing Aligote. A cheesy/lactic not e at first blew off, leaving a funny mix of high acid and tropical flavors. This gets much better with some time, pears laced with limeade and a rocky /flinty finish. Great wine for blind tasting. B+/A-

Next up was a mixed mushroom crostini. First red course got Italy as first guess, but then group quickly got Burg.

1985 Trapet Latricieres-Chambertin Alive, good fruit, but disappointing for a 1985 GC. Guesses were younger bu t way down the heirarchy. Red and black cherry, a little sandalwood, but mo dest finish and no real complexity. B-

1988 Faiveley Latricieres-Chambertin A little burly at first, but opened up nicely, and by end of night showed e legance. Roasted meat and coffee over black cherry and plum. Cathleen got G evry for both early, but took a while to get to Latricieres. B+/A-

Somewhere before we finished the Burgundy I served roast squab over lentils . I had ordered some squab (frozen) from D’Artagnan, thawed it, and that’s when I realized they weren’t dressed. A little extr a time for removing viscera (and discovering they feed them corn). But I li ke game birds, it was worth it.

1977 Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon Peppery, herby, tannins gone and living on acids, red currant fruit, fun an d a good value. B/B+

1975 Ridge York Creek Petite Sirah Initial guesses were Rhone (totally reasonable). Meat, bacon , red plum, a smokey note. Once I said Cali, Cathleen said Syrah, I said “a littl e” Guesses as to a blend, till they got my joke. Also thought much younger. Not super complex, but good. B+

Betsy had made lamb hunter style (from a Biba Caggiano book) with delicata squash and broccolini.

1975 Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo One of the more divisive wines, a couple disliked. There’s some VA (duh) but underneath a lovely wine in a masculine style- black cherry and r aspberry, smoke, some coffee. Good length. B+/A-

1988 Montevertine Riserva Red cherry and tobacco, a little leather, good acids, medium finish. B+/B

1971 Marcarini Brunate Barolo WOTN for me. Group quickly got Piedmont, but younger Barbaresco were first guesses. Black cherry, smoke, herb, a little mocha/espresso note. No real t annin left , but acidic structure, and long finish. Gets better and better. A-

1974 Marcarini Brunate Barolo Some disagreement here. 1 person thought maybe slightly heatdamaged, but I (and most) just thought a wine at end of lifespan. I think ‘74 was a great Piedmont vintage, but riper and shorter lived than say 71 or 78. Th e red fruit has a little roasted edge, there’s some herb, licorice, and soil. OK, but if I had been blind like the rest I might have guessed t ired Brunello, this seemed more Sangiovese than Nebbiolo. B

Good night with fun crew. I like blind tasting, but it’s fun to be the one “in the know” sometimes. And then decide how to ans wer guesses. I was mostly happy with way wines showed. .

For record Whites opened shortly before arrival. All reds had been stood up for 2 weeks. Nebbiolos double-decanted at 1 PM. Pepe about 4:30. Others opened about 6, decanted before serving,

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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DaleW
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