Steamy/swampy evening in NYC, but a good crew of old-school winegeeks gathe red to welcome our old friend Arv’s visit. Dinner at La Mangeoire, under new ownership but with few changes, at least to the charcuturie and c hicken I had.
2013 Jamet Cotes du Rhone Blanc I’m not much of a white Rhone guy, but this was quite good. Sweet c itrus and musky fruits, bright and fresh, good balance, a little almond not e like an Italian white. B/B+2011 Guigal 'La Doriane' Condrieu Floral, oaky, moderate acids. Others liked more than I did. B-
The blind red. Came across a bit hot to start, framboise and herbs, big ripe wine. I initi ally thought CA, then started thinking ‘03 or ‘07 CdP, but Paul guessed ‘03 so I ended up guessing Aussie GSM. But Nano stayed on theme, I was surprised this was a supposed cooler vintage wine. Others liked more than I did.
2004 P. Usseglio “Mon Aieul” Chateauneuf-du-Pape B-First flight
1989 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Off bottle. Some thought corked, which I didn’t get at all, more li ke a secondary fermentation. High/volatile acids, screechy, with a hint of spritziness. C-1989 Pegau Reserve Chateauneuf-du-Pape Lovely showing, nice texture, plummy red fruits with leather, herbs. and fo rest floor. I’m used to brett in my limited experience with Pegau b ut other than maybe the leather nothing bretty to me. A-/B+
1990 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape Red fruits, garrigue, a little mocha note. No hurry on these. Still going s trong at end of evening. B+/A-Second flight
1995 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Papel Mild barnyard funk, black plum fruit, mature and ready. B2000 Mordoree “ Reine des Bois” Chateauneuf-du-Pape I thought ‘00 was early drinking vintage, but this needs time. Rasp berries, mocha, some anise notes. Tannic. A bit riper than I’d pref er. B
Third flight
2001 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape Big young, good acids, very firm tannins. I liked this a lot though thought it could use some time. B+/A- 2001 Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Darker fruits, lots of herb, but with some fresh barnyard. I don;t mind a l ittle cowpatty, but really prefer it a bit dried out than perfectly fresh, BNorthern- 4th Flight
1999 Clape Cornas Fresh, smoke over black fruits, lots of complexity and nice length. A-/B+1999 Texier Hermitage Black fruits, peppery spice, some leather and cocoa. Good acids but not scr eechy, nice length. I liked more than some others. A-/B+
Some cheese to finish.
We did our usual 3/2/1 voting, the Pegau came out on top
1989 Pegau Reserve Chateauneuf-du-Pape 11 1990 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 9 1999 Clape Cornas 6 1999 Texier Hermitage 6 2004 P. Usseglio “Mon Aieul” Chateauneuf-du-Pape 3 2001 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 3 2000 Mordoree “ Reine des Bois” Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2 2001 Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape 0 1989 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 0 1995 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 0 (looks like 2 votes went astray)Good night, and great to see Arv.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.