TN: SOBER at my house

Nov 06, 2007 12 Replies

Last night was my turn to host SOBER (Several Oenophiles Being Extremely Rambunctious). I was a tad disappointed with my own performance the last time- food was ok, not great. So this year I made sure I scheduled for an evening Betsy was home, and did the cooking and joined us.



We had two non-blind bubblies as we gathered, snacked on salmon and liver mousse, and listened to Lucy beg for attention.


1998 Charles Ellner "Cuvee Seduction" Brut Champagne. I joked to Cathleen it is intended to be served between Taittinger's Prelude and Nocturne. 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir. Same blend as their Prestige, but in this one the Chardonnay is not all aged in wood. I think I prefer the Prestige by a nose. This is a pleasant enough bubbly, some yeast, quite round, a touch of sweetness. Nothing that would make me want to go looking for more, but happy to drink. B

NV Francois Pinon Touraine Rose Brut I wanted to serve this since Gilman writes more bubbly notes and Loire notes than just about anyone, and thought he should try. I just love this stuff. Wild strawberries with a hint of cranberry bitterness, chalky/flinty minerality, more length than the Champagne. I bought out CSW, and this was my last one. Winesearcher shows no more. Hopefully another batchj will make it this way. A-/B+



Then nine winegeeks (well, eight and Betsy) crammed into our little dining room. Flights were served double blind, but of course not for me. First course was a Ming Tsai recipe for clams (she used littlenecks and cockles) and udon in a lemongrass broth. I had noticed Ming's wine recommendation was Dagueneau's Pur Sang, since that was part of the first flight seemed like kismet.



Flight Number One



2006 Courier "Ryan's Vineyard" Sauvignon Blanc (decanted for a couple of hours around noon, then back in bottle, then in decanter to be served) First vintage of this wine, made by Jason Berthold, a sous chef at French Laundry, with I believe some advice from Abe (?), the guy at Scholium Project. I know Jason slightly, so had gotten on list. This debutante held its own admirably for my tastes. I don't think anyone went to SB (or Napa) at first, some guesses for Semillon or Chardonnay. When I said SB, someone asked if Muscat was added. As far as I know, all SB. Weighty wine, but lots of bright acids keep it lively. Tropical fruit, some lighter wood notes. Mark says he's never tasted so much papaya in a wine. A slightly oxidative style that gives it complexity in its youth. A sip while cleaning up close to midnight was even better. Bravo, Jason. B+/A-


2001 Didier Dagueneau "Pur Sang" Pouilly-Fume A sweet edge, gooseberry and Granny Smiths with a good dose of coconutty oak. Big, powerful, good acids. These wines are never typical, but they are always memorable. I like, but not quite as much as the Courier. B+


1996 Laville Haut Brion (Pessac-Leognan) So here's a scary thought. John's theory is that the pre-ox problems of white Burgundies may also rear their head in white Bordeaux. I had this last year, thought it remarkable and fresh. This is showed a little edge of oxidation. It is the most identifiable of the bunch, Dan says "white Bordeaux" as soon as he tastes. A honied Semillon note, with apples and figs. Some wood spice. OK, but the oxidative notes are a bit bothersome. B

Flight Two all double-decanted in morning


1990 Trotanoy (Pomerol) Craig guesses Pomerol quickly. I had loved this wine at a '90 horizontal in 2005, but this doesn't show so well. Doesn't seem cooked or corked, but doesn't have the length or lushness I remember. Basic cassis fruit, a kind of ferric minerality. Marks notes iodine- I don't get that,but several others agree. Certainly a drinkable mature Bordeaux, but without being anything to search for (and most expensive wine of tasting). B


1990 Pape Clement (Pessac-Leognan) Another wine I bought based on that horizontal. I thought this was just lovely last night. Not huge, a beautiful svelte ripe Bordeaux. Coffee and cigarbox framing blackcurrant and berry fruit. Lots of earthy notes. Mark got Graves quite fast. Definitely red wine QPR of the night. A-/A


1990 Lagrange Most 1990ish of the bunch -fruit riper than other two. Ripe cassis fruit, a hint of vanillin sweetness, but with a bit of delicacy. Quite good, but maybe not best bottle I've had in last couple years. B
+/A-

With the 1990s, the main course arrived. I had originally envisioned a Sangiovese course (mature Monsanto CCR and Pergole Tortre), but when I switched I told Betsy to keep the original menu. Straccato, mashed potatoes, green beans with sesame oil. Very good, I worried the intense sauce would be too tart for the wines, but I think ok. Great job, Betsy.



Flight Three (Mark was in Graves within two sniffs) double decanted an hour or so before folks arrived


1983 Haut Brion Just a lovely bottle, great acidic backbone, resolved tannins, youthful fruit. Black plum and currant with herbs and smoke, earth. Excellent length, purity, focus. Gets pleasantly cedary after a bit. Others said they had tried recently, not shown near as well (no great wines, just great bottles, blah blah blah). Easily WOTN for me, though I was happy with almost all of the wines. A/A-


1983 La Mission de Haut Brion Sterner, more primary, tannins less evolved. Dark fruit and tobacco. Actually seems less evolved than other bottle from same source I carried to goodbye dinner for David Wainwright couple years ago. I like this a lot, but more for potential than right now. A-



Flight Four Decanted right before serving


1970 Figeac (St. Emilion) Pretty red fruit accented by green herbs and olive. Some Cab Franc comments immediately. I think I liked a bit more than group. Red plum fruit, those lovely integrated green notes, develops tobacco, mushrooms, and cedar in glass. The remainder of this bottle is my present to myself as I clean up, evolving over a couple of hours. Rich, complex, long. A-


1970 Gruaud-Larose(St Julien) Not a pristine bottle. Fill was just into neck, but of course in those old Cordier bottles that's a long neck. Cork was saturated and totally fell apart. Didn't show cooked or even especially oxidized, just way more mature than its flightmate. Some tobacco, leather, ripe black fruit but a tad tired. Still tasty, but this fell apart after an hour. A sip while dishwashing led remainder of this to go directly to vinegar jar. B



There was a recipe for apple cake in the Sunday NYT magazine, Betsy had noted similarities to recipes she had from my mom and her aunt. The magazine inspired her to try her aunt's, which included some OJ and almond extract. Think it was popular around table (I don't eat dessert). For apples I debated Quarts de Chaume or Riesling, went with the



2003 Von Hövel "Oberemmeler Hütte" Riesling Eiswein . I though this was simplistic Riesling, sweet but without a lot of depth. Ripe apple fruit, decent acidity. A few people thought it showed pretty well with the cake, a couple liked it less than I did. OK, but glad to have the cellar space back. B-

Overall, a very good night, I felt I had redeemed myself (or maybe that Betsy had redeemed me). Nice group of people



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency



By the way, Jason is a former contributor here, Jaybert41.

Abe Schoener is the name of the Scholium project guy.

Was the Lagrange Pomerol or St Julien? I still have a few bottles of the 1990 Pomeerol that are still drinking well. IIRC it is/was a Mouiex property.

Oops, I left off appelation on one where it really matters! It was the St Julien, which I've liked even more in past. I seldom see the Pomerol, but tht doesn't excuse sloppiness! :(

I opened one of my last bottles of 1970 Gruaud-Larose just this Sunday and still have some stored in the wine machine under prepurfied nitrogen. It was properly stored since release and had a fill well in the neck. The cork was sound, but was very soft and a bit difficult to remove. The color is still fairly deep with just a bit of age showing around the rim. The wine is still decent, but appears to be somewhat on the decline. It still has plenty of fruit and I would not argue with your mention of tobacco and leather. I noticed a slight herbal taste that might be called ivy, although I really do not know how ivy tastes. Whatever this taste, it detracted from the wine a bit for me. On your scale I would give it a B-. It is just a bit boring, and lacks the balance and complexity that this wine can have in the best years. It was better a few years ago, perhaps a B to B+ then. If I had a lot of this in the cellar, I would drink it up fairly soon. It has remained stable stored under the prepurified nitrogen for the last few days.

I figured as much, though I'd thought he was at Per Se. Did he move? Good to hear that he's making wine, especially as tasty as that one sounds. Fun notes, Dale. Did you supply all the wines? That's quite a hit to the cellar if so, but I suppose it all evens out.

Mark Lipton

IIRC, Jason started at the French Laundry, came to NYC as part of the Per Se opening team, then back to TFL. And the wine is on the list at TFL, Bouchon, and Per Se- quite a vote of confidence.

I like SOBER's format a lot (Mark Golodetz devised). There are 9 of us. Host provides dinner. He also has a budget of up to $150 per attendee for wine. Host can source, or choose from own cellar. Everyone tends to be quite generous in any case, but it lets those with younger/smaller cellars play on a fairly level field. In my case, on wines I had acquired in last 2-3 years, I figured based on my purchase price. On the others, I went a little under lowest winesearcher. Bubblies and dessert were my treat. I figured $945 for the still whites and reds, so divide by 9, collected $735 -I didn't collect from Betsy :)

Makes it not seem like I just wiped out cellar, now I can go shopping!

And last time the format meant I could source a '83 Cheval Blanc, beyond my normal budget. Last night a few folks argued I was too low, but I felt others have been extremely generous. I mean, one night John served the '79 Lafleur, the value of which by itself was about what we all chipped in (and then had top '85 & '88 Grand Crus, '78 Haut Brion, '82 Gaja, etc etc).

In general my wine friends are all pretty generous. But this method kind of insulates against the idea that someone is less giving than others.

It's easy to overlook the Pomerol as it's a property with a lot of ups and downs. I really like the 1990 as it has the typical richness of Pomerol merlot with the restraint that a good winemaker can impart through balance. I don't think it has the pedigree of St Julien in terms of soil and fruit but it can be a charming wine at a good price.

Tonight's update (had a few ounces of most wines leftover, no preservation other than cork in bottle):

Whites:

For dinner tonight. Betsy got another dozen littlenecks, some more spinach, and flshed out the leftover broth from night before. The leftover Pur Sang was holding well- hints of oxidation,but a nice muscular face of SB overall.

'96 Laville Haut Brion- the light oxidation of last night is now full- blown madierazation.

A sip of the Courier was lively enough for me to leave remainder for tomorow

Reds '90 Trotanoy- a bit more giving than night before, but some definite oxidative notes

'90 Lagrange- downright pruney, into vinegar jar

'83 La Mission du Haut Brion- still a big stern, structured wine, but more obvious fruit.

'90 Pape Clement- still rocking. A touch pruney, but overall still clear, ripe, enticing.

Thanks for data point. I thought a bottle at a vertical 2 years ago was a tad more lively, but otherwise close to yours

Great tasting, Dale, and thanks for sharing the notes.

Just a point about this name: some might find it vaguely disquieting. "Pure Blood." Does it evoke something racial? Is it a comment on the virility of the stuff?

None of the above. In fact it means "thoroughbred", as in a race horse. So the wine is lean, racy, and has long legs. (Many of you probably knew this already, but just in case.)

I'm not a big fan of catchy names like this, anyway.

-E

One more report on leftover:

Two days later, the Ellner Champagne showed quite poorly. Still some petillance, but the dosage was sticking out like a sore thumb. Oxidized/appley.

The Pinon rose on the other had still had zip and freshness. Nice backdrop to a chicken with 40 garlic cloves dish.

The Courier SB didn't seem any more oxidized than on day one- it seems to be the style. More minerally, still good depth. Glad I have more (even if it was $45, this is serious wine).

The Belliviere chenin, open 4 days, was showing just a touch of oxidation, but still nice.

So some of the mature reds lasted a day, some didn't. The higher acid whites did ok for 2-4 days, but were beginning to show a bit of wear. Winner for aging was probably a sparkling rose that had a tight seal, and runnerup a wine that already had an oxidative style. No surprises.

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