TN: Week's wines- Gayan, Ridge, Brun, Smith, 3 Croix, etc


A big list, as I was not my usual obsessive-noteposter-self this week:
With a stuffed (prune and apricot)pork loin roast, the 2004 Terres
Dorres (Brun) L'Ancien Beaujolais matched pretty well- lively (almost
sharp) acidity, bright cherry and strawberry fruit, nice finish- not
especially long, but clean fruit and earth. Actually showed even better
the following night, with pepper-heavy red meat sauce over linguine.
Nice clean easy fun wine, B
Betsy made her duck legs with a mustardy crust (served over salad, with
acorn squash on the side) for an early meal before we went into city
Wednesday (she had gotten me a ticket for the last performance of G &
S's "Patience", very funny). I opened a 375 of the 2003 WH Smith Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Oh dear. All of the sudden my previous WH Smith
experience flashed before my eyes. Lots of sweet toasty oak with a
slight burnt edge, over-the-top ripe red fruit with a hint of cola,
low-acid, noticable tannins. Even less appealing on day 2, just not my
style, and even from a 375 a nice pour makes it into my new vinegar
crock. C+
Friday I was soloing again, with chicken/apple sausages with spinach on
side, the wine was the 2002 J. J. Christoffel Ürziger Würzgarten
Riesling Kabinett. Excellent acidity, moderate sweetness to the white
peach and tropical fruit, nice slatey mineral notes. Held up well over
2 ensuing nights. This was a decent deal at the $12 or $13 I originally
paid, but is an absolute steal at the $8 that PC has had for
grey-market bottles. B/B+
Betsy was working matinee but off Saturday evening, and we were going
to a movie ("Squid and the Whale", very good acting, but some
irritating automotive anachronisms) after dinner at home. I was
planning on going to city to Chambers St. Wines in afternoon to pick up
an order and attend the Louis-Dressner tasting, so decided to use the
slow-cooker to prepare dinner. A Chinese-influenced short ribs dish,
with white rice and some stir-fried baby bok choy. Life (well, work),
got in the way and I never made the tasting, but dinner turned out
well, as did the 1998 Domaine Gayan Gigondas. Ripe red fruit with an
almost roasted note, hints of earth and meat, lots of tannic structure.
Day 2 it shows more smoke and spice. Nice one that could use a couple
more years, but nice now. B+
Over the last week +, there have also been a few wines opened with
friends or as an after-dinner sip, all consumed over several days:
2000 Les Trois Croix (Fronsac)
Now this is a little 2000 that has developed well, and still seems on
the upswing. Rather lush raspberry and black plum fruit, velvety
texture, earthy finish with the tannins integrating but still
noticable. Put away for couple more years, B+/A-
2004 Domaine Aubuisieres "Cuvee Silex" Vouvray
No designation but I'd say on the dry side of demisec (or the sweet
side of sec-tendre). Clean apple pie chenin fruit with a little peach,
but lacking the zippy acidity I'd expect in young Vouvray. A little
dilute, ok but nothing to go looking for. B-
2002 Ridge "Geyserville" (375)
Lots of ripe raspberry, blackberry,and blueberry fruit, it's a tannic
berry bomb at moment. There's some vanilla-ey oak, too. Better on 2nd &
3rd days, this needs time. I have a feeling this will be good, but
won't touch the 750s for at least 4-5 years. B- for now, B/B+ potential
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of
consistency.
Reply to
DaleW
In article ,
Dale you have mentioned these duck legs many times. Do you or Betsy have a recipe to share on that one? I'm always looking for good duck leg recipes.
Reply to
Lawrence Leichtman
It's actually quite simple and easy, which is why it's in Betsy's Top Ten Recipes When You're Short on Time (well, it takes 2 hours, but only few minutes of work). She seasons duck legs, then brushes liberally with Dijon mustard, then puts on panko. Drizzles with a little melted butter, then bakes for 2 hours at 375°F. Usually then she'll stick under broiler for couple minutes to add final crispness to crust. Serves over greens.
Reply to
DaleW
Dale, I'm surprised at your evaluation of the Geyserville. We've pretty much run through what we had bought when first available (about a case or so) and are looking to pickup some additional bottles but not for longer-term (we'll drink within a year). I didn't find the 2002 to be as massive as the 2001 or even the 2000. To me, 2002 was much softer initally, with a hefty amount of berryiness but not over the top. Certainly didn't find it to be a tannin bomb. Now, if you were talking about the 2001 I'd be right there with you, as we've found 2001 to be exactly as you've described this one.... curious.
Cheers, Gary
Reply to
g_h_obrien
Hve you tried any of Brun's negociant bottlings, Dale? I understand that he's making a Fleurie and Cotes de Brouilly now.
Baby killer! ;-)
Mark Lipton
Reply to
Mark Lipton
Note that this Fronsac property belongs to Patrick Léon, former directeur technique of Mouton-Rothschild and the Baronnie group.
M.
Reply to
Michael Pronay

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