TN: Wine from all over France and Italy

This week’s cooking wine was the 2010 Pepi Lignana “Leopoldino” Verme ntino. Somewhat peachy, a hint of almond, soft, easy. Good enough for a che apie. B -

With braised smoked pork chops and a warm lentil salad, the 1999 Trimbach “Cuvee Frederic Emile” Riesling. Probably best showing I’ve ever had of this wine- 1999 isn’t a wow vintage at Trimbach, but this is getting p retty wowwy. Just a bit tight at first, it opens after an hour and stay ope n. Lemon/grapefruit and a hint of ginger, some petrol with air. Balanced a cids, voluptuous without being heavy, quite pleasing. A-

Pasta and tomato sauce with sausage led me to open the 2010 A Vita Ciro Cla ssico Superiore. Maybe - maybe- a bit bigger than the basic Ciro Classico, but still a lightbodied and sprightly fun wine. Good stuff, but I’d just as soon drink the slighlty cheaper one. B

I opened the 2010 Puffeney Savagnin (Arbois) with swordfish in a caper sauc e. I love the Jura, I’ve certainly liked Savagnin before, I like edgy and unusual, but this for me was just too out there. Wildly herby and piney, n utty, reminded me of fino sherry with a dash of vermouth and a hint of Pine sol. C-

Sunday with skirt steak, hash browns, and broccoli, I opened the 2008 Came ron Hughes “Lot 296” Crozes-Hermitage- oops,. corked! Backup was a 2003 Ch. Gloria (St Julien). Fat/plush Bordeaux (as you would expect from vin tage), cassis and mocha. Not complex, but drinking well in a lush style. B

Monday was borlotti beans and spinach with garlic bread with the 2010 Chid aine “Clos de Breuil” Montlouis-sur-Loire. Takes a while to open, but w hat a beauty. Ripe tropical and citrus fruit, bracing acids, wax and wool a nd all things Chenin-good. A-

With express lane (pressure cooker) coq au vin the first bottle of 1992 Jad ot Gevrey-Chambertin showed some seepage and was too advanced even to cook with, but the second wasn’t bad at all. Some tea and light ashtray notes, but sweet black cherry fruit made it quite palatable and certainly cooking worthy (this was part of a mixed lot where I bid based on other bottles, s o basically free). B-/C+

Drinking wine was the 2010 Brun Cote de Brouilly. Fun wine, nice balance, b lack raspberry and some spice. B++

Last night with littlenecks and broccoli over thin spaghetti, the cooking a nd dinner wine was the 2011 Colle Stefano Verdicchio di Matelica. New vinta ge, I like as much as the last. Juicy green apple fruit with a squirt of le mon, plenty of saline/mineral notes. Good length. B+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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DaleW
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