[TN] Wines with Goko

Almost a month ago, we got a phone call from a friend, inviting us to a dinner involving Wagyu beef. Our friend, who owns two Thai restaurants locally, could obtain high quality Japanese Wagyu beef through some connections he'd made (in the National Restaurant Assn, the other NRA). And so it was that we convened on his house on Sunday to indulge in Wagyu beef. I had agreed to provide the wines for this event. When we got there, we were informed that the beef we would cook was from a steer named Goko, a Satsuma Wagyu of grade A4 (apparently A5 grade is the highest) as attested to by a "birth certificate" that included a nose print.

As a starter, Ake had brought some hamachi sashimi, which we ate with a starter wine:

NV Chandon Brut, which had a coarse mousse but decent acidity and a solid core of appley fruit

Then it was on to the main course. Ake had cubed 5 pounds of the beef and placed 4 large stones in a bonfire. He removed a stone from the fire, placing it on a broiling pan on the table. He then placed a half dozen of the small beef cubes on the hot stone, immediately causing them to sizzle and drip fat. We turned each of the cubes, cooking them on all sides, then sprinkled them with salt and ate. My impression was of beef-flavored foie gras. The flavor was very mild but it was the texture of the beef that one noticed, as it was so tender as to be unlike any other beef I've eaten. With the beef, we had three wines:

1990 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabaja Curiously, this wine had next to no nose when opened. This was all about tertiary character: leathery with little fruit left, decent structure but little aromatic complexity. Not totally gone, but this wine was well past peak IMO, though still quite enjoyable.

All three wines were good with the beef, but the Corton stood out among the three, at least to me.

Mark Lipton

Goko sounds like a fine fellow. I must say I really like this sort of traceability with beef, especially during this time of rogue prions (and species). It's easy to see how the Japanese, with this aesthetic, are reluctant to let EU beef into the country. (The EU also had banned Japanese beef). I wonder how they feel about lifting the ban following on from the horse meat scandal?

The best Norman butchers also provide a very high level of traceability, usually down to the field and farm the steer (or heifer, as "genisse") was raised in and its complete dietary records. Sometimes we get a name and picture, too. :)

Wines sound brilliant Mark, good choices, thanks for the notes.

-E

Emery Davis` wrote in news:b3njpkF710iU1 @mid.individual.net:

I am not sure I am interested in knowing the name of the cattle I am about to eat. This reminds me of a story that a friend of mine told me some time ago, when he went to allegedly the best japanese restaurant in Spain (Kabuki, in Madrid) and they were served a fish that had both its fillets made into sashimi and served on top of the spine, head and tail, still moving because the fish was alive. moving eyes, moving mouth, moving tail. All in the middle of the table.

s. get-together the Loire in november? will be teaching again there.

This type of story has descended into the realm of urban myth! I've heard it before and always greeted it with a certain amount of skepticism. I do note you say "allegedly!" :)

When we were kids my parents had some friends who raised the occasional cow or pig, and kept them as pets. One such veal was named Hour Old (for the obvious reason) and my sisters doted on him. Then one day we were visiting and served hamburgers for lunch someone demanded (the way kids will even when it's in front of them) what was for lunch. The daughter replied brightly "It's Hour Old!" My sisters never forgave her.

Among anglophones in France this is called "Thumper Complex" (after the rabbit in Bambi) and is widely derided. ;)

Great! Definitely will try. Can I persuade you to visit Jasnieres?

"Emery Davis`" wrote .................

In NZ, it is not uncommon for the children of a sheep farmer to adopt an orphaned lamb as a pet.

They are hand reared (usually by little girls named Mary or Priscilla or North West).

As part of the family they will often watch TV re-runs of Shari Lewis or Babe.

However, "Rosebud" or "Topsy" do quickly grow into something a little larger that those fluffy, bouncy critters, and soon become abandoned by Mary or Priscilla or North West.

But, being raised in and around the house, these things forget that they are actually - sheep.

They cannot be returned to the flock - they are just too tame, craving human companionship - in fact, they are bloody nuisance.

Of course, it is unconscionable to suggest that "Rosebud" would be best served either roasted or "racked" - oh dear - what to do?

Across NZ the solution is simple. Farmer Alpha will find a new home for "Rosebud" - swapping said beast for Farmer Beta's "Topsy"

Problem solved - the Alpha tribe has no problems devouring "Topsy" - likewise the Beta bunch has no attachment to roasted "Rosebud".

Emery Davis` wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:

Allegedly referred to "the best Japanese restaurant in Spain". Whether it is an urband myth or not, all I can say is that this is not the story of a friend of a friend of a friend. Instead, it was two direct friends of mine who were sitting at the table.

Let's work on it, but it will depend on my schedule at work while there, if I have an extra day to go to Jasnires...

s.

Glad the Montevertine and Faiveley showed well. Never had beef where I knew animal's name, though when I was a kid we'd split a yearling steer with my grandfather who raised them, but no names (except for the bull).

One aspect I learned about farming is to never name an animal that you are going to have to dispatch. I once named an incredibly prolific eggplant Octomom though.

Great name for an eggplant. My wife's parent had a ranch and the only cows named were the bulls cause all of the rest of the were meant for breeding, selling, or eating.