WTN: My matching mistake (Marsanny rose and Beaujolais)

Monday we had ham and other Easter leftovers, with the 2006 Domaine
Bart Marsannay rose. Pleasant if unexciting pink, cherry and
strawberry fruit, a little touch of pleasant bitterness on the finish,
hint of herbs. Could use a tad more body for my tastes. B/B-
Tuesday Betsy was feeling better and told me she was making pork chops
with apple- I envisioned opening a Gruner Veltliner or drier Riesling.
Then I found out that the dish featured nori (as well as edamame and
Japanese yams), and I turned to rose or darker red. I finally chose a
Brun "L'Ancien" Beaujolais. Maybe the worst pairing mistake I've made
in at least a year. I hadn't read the recipe.
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First of all, once the cider is reduced, the sauce is very tart. The
shichimi togarashi spice mix also clashed with the Gamay. The food
killed the wine, and the wine did the food no good at all. I
eventually conceded defeat and clung to my seltzer siphon. This might
be a wine-proof dish, but if she does again I might try a sparkling
Chenin or an off-dry Riesling (with low hopes).
As to the 2006 JP Brun (Terres Dorees) "L'Ancien" Beaujolais, a food
friendly wine, just not this food. After the meal on its own, I quite
enjoyed a glass. Not as big as the 2005, clean fresh black cherries
and raspberries, a light tannic note on the finish. A little bit of
flowers, some spice. Really a nice wine that deserved better treatment
than being thrown into the pit with the pork chops and nori sauce. F
for the match, B+ for the wine.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
Reply to
I've found darker fruits in ripe vintages of L'Ancien before, especially the '05. So no real surprise. Most of bottle left, will see how it seems tonight.
Reply to
Bummer, Dale. We found the '06 L'Ancien surprisingly dark-fruited. Your mention of black cherries sounds similar. Were you at all surprised?
Mark Lipton
Reply to
Mark Lipton

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