I'm travelling to London on July 13 for a three week trip. I'll be staying in Harlow for two weeks, and will then relocate to London (probably Bloomsbury) for the third week. I'm an afficianado of English brews, and I look forward to sampling as many as possible while there. I'm particularly fond of Stouts (especially the Irish 'big three' Beamish, Guinness, and Murphy's) and I'd appreciate some reccomendations for good local Stouts. And, of course, I'd like to sample some of Londontown's best Pubs, so I'd appreciate any suggestions. I enjoy a good Shepherd's Pie; any Pubs serve a particularly good one?
I'd like to sample some local pubs, as well as perhaps more well-known, 'touristy' pubs. How are Americans, and outsiders generally, recieved at local pubs? Any reccomedations?
Finally, I'm considering a two or three day trip to Ireland, and would like to tour the Guinness, Murphy's, and Beamish breweries. Are they in the same vicinty? Are tours allowed? Can I get to them without a car? Is there a city that's centrally located between all three?
Well, I am sorry to say that you arelikely to be disappointed by the local stouts available in a trip in July. Sure, you can find Guinness almost anywhere. But other stouts are not widely available in pubs in the summer. In fact, I had to hunt for them in December, 2001 and January, 2002, when I was there.
One of the best English stouts that is semi-widely available is a product of Samuel Smiths. I did find this in London (in the winter). I wish I could tell you the name of the pub. If I find it, I will post it.
As for great pubs, go to the White Horse, at Parson's Green. This is simply one of the best places in the world to drink beer, and the owners really care about the quality of the products they dispense. Sometimes you can find an Oyster Stout from Yorkshire there, though I'm not sure you will in July.'
Also in London, I am very partial to the Westminster Arms.
You really should get your hands on both Michael Jackson's World Guide to Beer and the pub gude published by the Campaign for Real Ale. Even for a short trip, both are well worth having.
I have always, without exception, found I've been treated well, both by the staff and by cutomers. Beer is a universal language!
A quick look at an atlas would have shown you that Dublin & Cork are on opposite sides of the country, and most of the cities in Ireland are around the edge - the centre is pretty empty.
Boy, did you ever time your trip badly, in four weeks time (August
5-9) the Great British Beer Festival is on in London, 450 real ales (including several stouts) and 100's of bottled beers from around the world. Any chance you can reschedule or extend your trip?
Here are some pubs to try, this is a mix of good locals, historic pubs and great beer outlets:
Archery Tavern, 4 Bathhurst Street, Lancaster Gate W2. By Lancaster Gate tube and near Hyde Park and Kensington Palace. Badger (Hall & woodhose) pub.
Brasserie Les San-Sulottes, 27-29 Endell Street, London WC2. New French owned brew pub/restaurant. Next door to:
Cross Keys, 31 Endell Street, London WC2.
Cittie of Yorke, 22 High Holborn, London WC1. One of the few places you'll find Samuel Smith's cask conditioned in London.
Head of Steam, Euston Station London NW1 (by bus station). Usually 7 beers and a cider on hand pump, some good bottled beers also available.
The Jerusalem Tavern, 55 Britton Street, Cleckenwell EC1 Only London outlet for beers from the St. Peters Microbrewery.
The Lamb, 94 Lamb's Conduit Street, London WC1. Young's pub, one of the few still to have "snob screens" around the bar.
O'Hanlons Little House, 8 Tysoe Street, London EC1. Regular outlet for O'Hanlon's beers, including one or two stouts.
Market Porter, 9 Stoney Street, Borough SE1. Don't miss this one, eight real ales on at all times.
Moon Under Water, 105-107 Charing Cross Road, London WC2. A Wetherspoon's pub with well kept beer.
Old Mitre, 9 Ely Place, London EC1. Not so much for the beers, but a great old pub, if you can find it.
Packenham Arms, 1 Packenham Street, London WC1. Open 8.00 am until
1.30 am Monday to Friday, normal hours at the weekend.
Priory Arms, 83 Lansdowne Way, Stockwell, London SW8.
Porterhouse, 21-22 Maiden Lane, London WC2. London outlet for Dublin brew pub including Plain Porter, their replacement for Guinness. Also very good bottled beer selection (by London standards) and a great beer bottle collection displayed around the walls.
The Royal Oak, 44 Tabbard Street, near Borough Station. Very good back street local, Harvey's Ales.
Sekforde Arms, 34 Sekforde Street, London, EC1. Good Young's pub
Wenlock Arms, 26 Wenlock Road, London N1. Real back street boozer with good selection of real ales.
The White Horse, 1 Parson's Green, Fulham SW6. Bit off the tourist track but only 5 minutes walk from Parson's Green station and will no doubt be recommended by others answering your query.
You can find reviews of many of these places at:
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Finally, skip the Ireland trip and do that another time, especially if it means you can be in London for the GBBF.
By the way, good luck in Harlow finding a decent beer. You might check out the 350+ year old Crown, 40 Market Street, Old Harlow.
There is a Wetherspoons pub in the town centre, the William Aylmer, Aylmer House Kitson Way, Harlow, CM20 1DG. Map can be found here:
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000&child=&lodge The Wetherspoon chain of pubs usualy offer guest beers, though it is very much down to the manager as to when and what is offered. Don't know about the Harlow outlet, but worth a try.
By the way, at it is your first time in Britain, you may want to read Passport to the Pub: A guide to British pub etiquette:
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I saw you were thinking about travelling into London from Harlow after work or at the weekend. Some info for you on the trains: Journey time to Liverpool Street is between 31 and 48 minutes and the last trains on weekdays are 23.32 (arrive Harlow Town at 00.13) and 00.03 (arrive
00.41). There are a number of fare options, but a cheap day return including a London Travelcard would probably be the best bet.
Thanks very much for the reply: The Pub ettiquette guidelooks very interesting. I was a bit shocked by the transit time to London from Harlow: now I have a more realistic expectation of what I can and can't do during the first two weeks of my trip. And, of course, the Harlow Pub advice is especially appreciated.
The Cittie of York is the one I referred to in my earlier post. I would rate it a must-see, not only for its Sam Smith's, but for great atmosphere. Food is pretty good, too.
Great list. Visited many of these. Of historical note check out: "Ye Olde Chesire Cheese on Fleet Street. Sam Smith Pub, reputed to be the oldest in London and the Sam Smith's OBB was quite good and quite reasonably priced when I was there last September.
"The Dove", 6 Upper Mall, Hammersmith W6 (Hammersmith tube stop), Fullers pub, 18th Century. Great place on a nice day to sit outside and have a few pints (Thameside pub with great view of Hammersmith Bridge and rowing races on the river). Pints are a we bit on the expensive side (a Fuller's employee one time told me it was their most expensive pint in London).
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