where can a person find a descent ale in germany?

And attempt to overcome more than a century of propagandization by the German brewing industry - especially the Bavarians? "Unser Bier bleibt rein." Nice slogan. Even some nice beers. Good luck explaining to the typical German beer-drinker why there's not as much meaning in that phrase as he'd like to think there is.

However, there *are* Germans who know more about such matters than the everyday punters buying Oettinger by the case at the local Aldi. They aren't terribly visible, but I've met some at beery occasions in other lands, and they very obviously "get it" - they understand that there is an wide range of good beer styles for them to enjoy outside of their own country's strictures. May they and their progeny spread the word, and preferably soon, before German brewing tradition drowns in an ocean of Reinheitsgebot-compliant mediocrity.