Scotland is home to some spectacular beer drinking, certainly in Edinburgh and Glasgow, but there's some rare treats to be had if you know where to look. As mentioned above the CAMRA Good Beer Guide is vital, though check to make sure that pubs listed are still open and/or offering cask beer. There are several fine non cask beers in Scotland, but that's not what you go for is it?
Here's a list of most of the currently operating breweries in Scotland:
Atlas Brewery Ltd. (Kinlochleven) - also An Teallach Ale Co. (?) Arran Brewing Co. (Arran) Belhaven Brewing Co. Ltd (Dunbar) Black Isle Brewing Co. Ltd (Munlochy) - Organic! Bridge of Allan (Bridge of Allan) Broughton Ales (Biggar) Cairngorm Brewing Co. (Aviemore) - formerlly Aviemore Brewery & Tomintoul Brewery Caledonian Brewing Co. Ltd (Edinburgh) being taken over by S&N 17 Feb.
2004 Clockwork Beer Co. (Glasgow) Far North Brewery/Melvich Hotel (Sutherland) Forth Brewing Co. Ltd. (Alloa) Fyne Ales (Argyll) Harviestoun Brewery (Dollar) Heather Ale Co. (Stathaven) Hebredean/Stonraway (Lewis) Houston Brewing Co. (Houston) Innis & Gunn (Edinburgh) Inveralmond Brewery (Perth) Isle of Skye Brewery (Skye) Kelburn Brewing Co. (East Renfrewshire) Maclay (Brewed by Belhaven?) Moulin Hotel & Brewery (Pitlochry) Orkney Brewery (Orkney) Tennent Caledonian (Glasgow) Traquiar House (Peelbleshire) Valhalla Brewry (Shetland)
You're obviously more likely to find the brews in tied pubs or freehouses closer to where the actual brewery is.
There are a few brewpubs going but I don't have that list handy.
A few beers of note:
Harviestoun Bitter & Twisted (2003 Champion Beer of Britain)
- all of the Harviestoun products a outstanding. Scheihellion is a cask lager! Caledonian Deuchars IPA (2002 Champion Beer of Britain)
-they're right in Edinburgh, so thery're easy to get to. There's a Ceilidh (traditional music/dance party) every Saturday night. I think it's £10 or so to get in. You'll find Deuchars all over Scotland. Cairngorm Tradewinds (I think this may be out of season)
-all of the Cairngorm products are spectacular. They're up in the Highlands so you can find them about up there, though somewhat down south. Heather Ale Co. Heather Ale-
-They're in the vicinity of Glasgow and brew in an old mill house. Bruce Williams is a fabulously nice fellow. Great beers.
As far as bars these are a few of my favorites (most CAMRA rated, all have cask):
Edinburgh - Bow Bar Just up from the Grassmarket. This is my favorite pub on planet earth.
Edinburgh - The Royal Oak. They have a late license and is a hub for true local folk music. Can be a bit smokey
Edinburgh - The Guildford Arms In the New Town. Excellent ragingly victorian pub. Good cask list
Leith - The Starbank Stuning view of the Forth. Lotta character. It's a bit off the beaten path.
Glasgow - Blackfriars Nice if somewhat modern pub. Avoid at all cost before any home Celtic match as the place is mobbed beyond all reckoning. Mind if you're of a green disposition can be a fine place for the craic.
Glasgow - "Whatever the Wetherspoons near Queen Street Station is called" Crap looking modern mega pub. The beer is dirt cheap and their casks are in good nick.
Glen Coe - Claghaig Inn At the base of the Highlands. Real beer lovers seek this one out.
If you're going out to the Islands make sure you've checked in advance about the status of the pubs listed.
If you need more don't hesitate to E-mail me.