Another litterary account... unknown tea (2026 Update)

Apr 28, 2009 Last reply: 20 hours ago 9 Replies

This is a recent post from my tea blog, but I wanted to post it here because I have a feeling someone might know something about the tea mentioned "chui chao." My guess is that it is a Fujian oolong/TGY but I'd love to learn more about the name used in the account.



The Dragonhead - Tea Account



One of my other passions is reading, in fact I generally set a goal of



52 books per year and chronicle them at my other blog:
formatting link
am currently reading “The Dragonhead” by John Sack which offers up the true story of the Chinese version of The Godfather… The Dragonhead. It’s a decent book, I’m about halfway through, and I came across a vivid account of tea peparation. I’m always excited to find these kinds of accounts because tea rarely makes more than a passing mention in most books. This one was particularly interesting because it was quite thorough and poetic but more importantly it mentioned a tea I have never heard of, and even after some research still do not have a full explanation of. Here is the excerpt:
“At midnight he’s sitting at a teak coffee table, a troop of monkeys carved into it, a sheet of glass over them, he’s eating the mangos and mongosteens (but not the maloderous durians) brought in a bamboo basket by Mrs. Old Fox. She then brings a tall and red-flowered can of chiu chao tea that Old Fox prepares like an alchemist concocting the secret elixer of life. The tea leaves, he first shakes into a ceramic pot engraved with a mountainside scene. The water (which started as rain, which fell on his roof, then went to a pipe, a ceramic barrel, a bottle, and an aluminum pot, then the old gangster boiled it over kerosene on his monkey-troop table)– the water he pours on the waiting leaves. At once he pours it off again, explaining to Johnny in Cantonese, “The first batch of water isn’t strong,” then he pours a second dose that, a while later, he pours with a flourish into Johnny’s pink-flowered cup. The tea’s almost black, like Turkish coffee.
“It’s wonderful tea,” says Johnny appropriately.”

The Dragonhead: The Godfather of Chinese Crime–His Rise and Fall


If anyone has any insight on “Chiu Chao” tea I’d love to know!


"Chiu Chao" is likely a variant spelling of "chiuchow," or "teochew." And it's probably Tieguanyin that he's preparing and serving.

See:

formatting link

Yes, that was the conclusion I sort of came up with but the part that threw me off was the description of it being "almost black, like Turkish coffee." The only problem I have with this book is that it is written with full detailed conversations and descriptions however the writer is a white guy who simply interviewed a lot of people about Johnny Kon. So all of the detail is invented as he wasn't actually there as the text would make you believe, and when it comes to non- fiction I'd prefer it to be fully accurate or not at all. So, this account is most likely invented based on real tea experiences... but I did enjoy the way it was told and the unknown aspect of the tea in question piqued my curiosity.

- Dominic Oh, and it's literary... boy way for me to screw up a post title. I need to start reading more dictionaries it seems :)

See previous posts on teochew for a different context.

Jim

Good catch! Another common spelling for this area is Chaozhou, which is the Mandarin spelling. It's a hotbed of gongfu tea practice.

Couldn't it be Dancong?

/Lew

It could very well be Dan Cong as that would also be the right region and brewing style... and might get closer to that Turkish coffee black. I followed the account fine until that comment was made about how black the tea was which made me think maybe that region had or has some other tea as well which is more akin to a black/red tea.

For some reason my last few posts have not shown up in response to this thread... I'm not sure why but hopefully this one makes it.

- Dominic (and yes, I know it should be literary :)

Oh, sure, Lew. It could be anything, really. I was just referring to that linked Wikipedia article's sole tea reference: "Authentic Teochew restaurants serve very strong Oolong tea called Tieguanyin in very tiny cups before and after the meal. Presented as Gongfu cha, the tea has a thickly bittersweet taste, colloquially known as gam gam...."

formatting link

If you prepared TGY the way I'm accustomed to drinking it, you'd probably call it thick and almost-black, too. :-)

Yeah, that's why I don't think there's any reason to take Sack's descriptions..."litterally". Heh.

It's funny enough that the thugs were drinking from pink-flowered cups. Imagine if Sack had also written, "The tea's pellucidly golden, like a pool of liquid sunshine shimmering in the delicate porcelain vessel."

"Almost black, like Turkish coffee" sounds far more gangster-ish, no?

Good point. I actually hadn't thought about exaggeration in the tea description since it seemed pretty accurate and taken from some real life experience... but very plausible. It really drives me insane when people write true accounts by using 90% fictitious information and conversations... at that point just write a novel that has some elements drawn from real life.

- Dominic

(It looks like the flood gates finally opened and all of my posts showed up)

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required