The cold weather, White Christmas, wind whistling etc, coupled with lack of preparedness (forget to get wine out of the cold cave the previous day) prompted us to choose a retrospective of 2003. Completely random, guided by what was on hand and not buried under boxes or anything, and also could get nuked in the microwave with at least a reasonably clear conscience. We do a standing rib roast of good local Norman beef -- pictures of the cow available on demand from the redoubtable butcher, who amazingly has gone all organic during the last year -- with yorkshire and sprouts, and usually an older Bordeaux; one of the few times during the year we go that route. This year though a "hot year" seemed in order, so 2003.
Ch. du Tertre (Margaux). Actually fairly lean and tight to begin with, after lots of air opened into a lovely Margaux, surprisingly not too hot, dark with griottes. Drink or hold.
Dom. de la Solitude (Pessac). Lean and again elegant, lots of leather, stone and a fine backbone of dark fruit. Again, not hot or overblown in any way at this point, but not going anywhere either. Drink.
Ch. Ormes de Pez (St. Estephe). Agreeable and well balanced, quite feminine but without either much tannins or fruit structure. Doesn't seem resolved, just a bit missing really, drinking below expectations. Bit of a conundrum, perhaps sleeping?
Ch. Terrey Gros Cailloux (St. Julien). Warm and generous, and a little hot but welcome given the weather. (In fact, the only one of the quartet that really cried out 2003). Some kirsch, chocolate, tons of dark fruit, not very tannic. Enjoyable, but drink now.
The ringer:
1995 Dom Roullet, Coteaux du Layon 'Prestige'. Fabulous, still in it's youth but resolved enough to wow the crowd, bracing acidity with citrus and orange peel, botrytis, honey all coming through layer after long layer.
Best for the holidays to all AFW and cheers,
-E