Finally off to Piedmont

Oct 09, 2006 12 Replies

My wife and I leave later this week to spend a week and a half in the Piedmont area of Italy. We've been thinking about going for years and are finally getting there. We'll first be staying in Turin, then in Alba, then three nights outside of Alba touring through the Langhe region. We hope to watch a truffle-hunting dog in action and taste wines made from the Nebbiolo grape. If anyone here knows of somewhere or something we definitely should not miss while in Piedmont please suggest it now. Thanks!



BTW we will definitely be opening our Barolos and Barbarescos to breathe for as long as possible before imbibing. ;^p


Professor wrote

Don't miss a meal at a restaurant with traditional dishes and an outstanding wine list: "Il Belvedere" in La Morra, one of the Barolo towns. If you want, you can ask the sommelier ora a waiter for a visit at theyr wonderful wine cave, digged in the stone of the hill upon which the town and the restaurant are. Great atmosphere and service, a good kitchen, plenty of wine and the availability of a "tasting menu" which, wine considered, gets you a full meal. Another good one is "Il Vignaiolo" at the foot of La Morra hill, good wine chart and food also here. This is truffles season up there now, if the prices aren't going too high have a try at some white truffle ;) About cheeses: in restaurants or in shops, look out for Robiola di Roccaverano, a very creamy and non-aged cheese; try Raschera, another strong cheese from the Langhe area, a good match for many local wines. And, if you happen in a good shop or restaurant, ask for BTW - I see you are from USA, a place where beef steak aìis weel regarded, so... why not try an award winner italian steak? (hope you're not vegetarian) If you can cook during your stay here, or if you can bring a chilled food box home by plane, the butchers of this consortium can sell pure Fassona breed steaks, vacuum sealed one by one, and I think this meat can be a nice discovery. In the langhe area they have a butcher in Cuneo: "Tutto carne" di Martini Carlo & C. Snc Corso Nizza 56/A

12100 CUNEO Tel. 0171 698826 and another one near Cuneo: "La granda trasformazioni" Localita' Genola Via Cuneo 41/C Tel. 0172 726178

About wine, well, I think you already know where to go ;)

Have a great trip. Haven't been, but have many friends who go regularly, and its on my list. I've heard very good things about visits to Marcarini, A Conterno, and B. Mascarello (he obviously died, but his daughter carries on, and has been doing winemaking for years- but she's not as colorful). Prunotto on the modern end has good rep for hospitality. Don't be shocked if winemakers proudly offer you wines that have been open for days. :)

Thanks for the restaurant, cheese, and meat recommendations! The words tasting and menu are two of my very favorites especially when they're together. I look forward to tasting the local cheeses and meats. I'll try to take some food and wine notes, but if I am overcome with bliss my production might fall off.

Thanks Dale! We have an appointment to meet with Maria Teresa Mascarello and tour the winery. Who would know more than Barolo masters about the importance of allowing wines to breathe?

"Professor" ha scritto nel messaggio news:oOzWg.6052$K11.3714@trndny07...

A unusual suggestion: beeing myself an Alp lover, I strongly suggest to rent a car and climb up to Grana valley, to reach the CastelMagno Sanctuary and maybe the Fauniera pass to buy (or to eat) some original CastelMagno Cheese in the local huts. It is possible now before the first snowfalls.

Luk

We were originally thinking about spending a nght up in the Alps near there, but ultimately decided against it. We'll definitely try to find some Castel Magro in cheese shops in Turin. Thanks

Sounds winderful. I like this wonderful stuff with a slight vein of green penicillus roqueforti... and a glass of serious botrytis.

Places to eat in Piemonte: yes the Belvedere of La Morra, the stupendous Guido at Pollenzo in the outskirts of Bra, the restaurant at the Castello di Verduno (the one in the hotel, or the CA' del Re with chef Alessandra), the Antica Corona Reale AKA da Renzo in Cervere and the affordable restaurants such as the Osteria Da Veglio at La Morra, plus the legendary if obscure Tavernetta of Gemma in Roddino near Dogliani, and the Boccon Divino in Bra. Avoid at all cost the Osteria dell'Arco in Alba, despite guide recommendations 3 visits resulted in the same aweful service (people kept bringing me there...).

Places to stay: the Castello di Verduno, the Locanda del Sant'Uffizio at Cioccaro di Penango near Asti, the Suite del Teatro in Bra or if no room there the more modest L'Ombra della Collina. If you like the agriturismo type of farm lodging, Cascina Angetta in Cherasco.

have fun

Mike

Castelmagno...

In Turin dine at Antiche Sere. Try find ice cream by GROM. In Rivoli go to try contemporary cuisine at Combal.Zero with chef Scabin.

We wanted to stay at Castello di Verduno but it was already booked by a group. Our hotel accomodations are made and paid for. We'll try dining at Osteria Antiche Sere. I saw where they make a good Brasato al Barolo, one of my favorites. Thanks for the suggestions.

Note that from the 26 to the 30 of October Turin is invaded by Slow Food members flocking to the Salone del Gusto. If you are there it is certainly worth spending a day. The wine testing section allows you to choose from thousands of wines, by the glass, at very modest prices.

cheers

We realized too late the Salone del Gusto will happen just after we leave :( We're determined to be as hedonistic as possible in spite of it.

Mille grazie, Gentlemen. All archived for inclusion in the FAQ.

Mark Lipton FAQ feeder

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