One of the great treats about being back in the Bay Area this winter is getting to attend some of the events put on by ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates and Producers), a great organization devoted to promoting the virtues of Zinfandel. The 4-day ZAP festival culminates in the "Big Event," where nearly 300 producers will taste their latest offerings. Of the four events, our favorite is the Food and Wine tasting, held last night at Ft. Mason in SF. A smaller scale event, with ~40 wineries, each paired with a food vendor, this tasting is less frenetic and also gives you a chance to consider what foods go well with the various Zins on offer. Here are my highlights:
Amador Foothill 2000 Ferrero Vineyard nose: briery pepper palate: medium body, smooth, berryish fruit and oak in the finish
Amador Foothill 2001 Esola nose: tart berries palate: slightly tannic, spicy, red berries and a tarry finish
served with a "deconstructed samosa" which went adequately with the wines (3 on the Hoare scale). Both wines were enjoyable, though the Esola was a more impressive wine.
Ridge 2002 Lytton Springs nose: closed-in, minerals and cedar palate: medium-full body, red berry fruit, slightly oaky with a clean finish
Very nice Zin, but a bit on the light side for Ridge Lytton Springs. Though not at this tasting, I've also had the '02 Geyserville, which IMO is a more substantial offering. Still, both wines are far better than the ludicrously bad reviews they got in the Wine Speculator. Is James Laube losing it?
served with a sumac-crusted lamb with chippolini onions (good match - 4 on the Hoare scale)
Hendry 2002 Block 7 nose: berryish fruit palate: oaky entry, red fruit, finishing on oak
Hendry 2001 Block 28 nose: dark fruit, briery palate: big, rich, slightly tannic with lots of dark fruit present
Was the big difference the year or the terroir? In any event, the Block
28 was far more enjoyable than its more recent sibling.served with an antelope sausage topped with a sun-dried cherry compote (excellent match - another 4)
Karly 2002 Warrior Fires nose: pure fruit, pepper palate: classic Zin character, berries, tar, pepper, long finish
One of my perennial favorites from Amador County, this wine didn't disappoint. Almost elegant, it showed classic varietal character.
served with baby back ribs with paquito beans (good match - 3)
Zoom 2002 Continente Vyd Contra Costa County nose: oak, jammy blackberry palate: chocolate, tannins, rich and deep, dark fruit, nice acidity
Zoom 2002 Alexander Valley nose: soy sauce and tea? palate: rich, oaky, pencil lead, tannins and spice
Of the two, the Continente was head and shoulders better (and my WOTN). Both wines were among the richest and deepest I tasted that night. Way to go, Zoom!
tasted with a pheasant gallatine with pistachio, apricot and mission fig compote (another good match -3 to 4)
Renwood 2001 Grandpere nose: tar and cedar palate: tar, acids, tannins, med. body, oaky finish
Where's the fruit? This wine had the structure and other notes, but just wasn't fruity enough, a cardinal sin in a Zin.
served with duck confit, sauteed spinach, mixed mushrooms and onion marmalade (a bit overwhelmed by the wine - 2)
Ravenswood 1994 Monte Bello color: brick with orange at the rim nose: cedar, smoke, red fruit palate: acidic on entry, medium-full body, berries and tar
Ravenswood 2002 Monte Bello nose: berries and pepper palate: rich, red berry fruit, decent acidity, oak, medium-full body
The treat here was being served the wine by none other than Joel Peterson, founder, winemaker and erstwhile owner of Ravenswood. As I have a number of Ravenswood Monte Rossos in my cellar, I was curious to see how the '94 had evolved. And who says Zin can't age? Both wines were very nice, if a bit lighter than I had expected.
served with a roast pork sandwich with stewed onions and prunes (the spicy mustard did in the wines - 2)
Overall, the impressions I came away with were that the 2002 Zins are a lighter bodied bunch than than the 2001s. Zoom definitely had the standout wines, though I didn't try the Rosenblum and Storybook Mtn offerings (baby was getting tired). Once again, this event was well worth the price of admission and a lot of fun.
So, what did we learn about pairing foods with Zin? First off, Zin goes well with lamb, smoked pork and various game meats. Secondly, fruity condiments on the meat do seem to enhance the match with Zin, but one should be careful not to make them too sweet.
Mark Lipton