Pacific Northwest Tasting

Notes from a Pacific Northwest blind tasting:

1997 Burrowing Owl Chardonnay (BC) - made while Bill Dyer was still in control this wine was remarkable for its longevity - I'd never have though a 10 year old BC chard would show as decently. It had some colour, a nice toasty varietal nose, and it still had decent fruit, although it finished a bit short.

1990 L'Ecole 41 Merlot (WA) - there was a difference of opinion with this one as some liked it more than I did. Mature nose with distinct rubber component, smooth on palate but showing neither much flavour nor tannin, it was tired and didn't ring my chimes.

1999 Apex Merlot (WA) - I trotted this out right after the Ecole as another merlot seemed in order. Medium colour, decent almost perfumed nose, very good balance, fruit and length. Didn't put a foot wrong. You don't see a lot about this producer, but I have always found it to be quite reliable.

2000 Calliope Cabernet (BC) - made by itinerant winemaker Ross Mirko, who shared facilities with Thornhaven, Poplar Grove and Lang, but who is no longer active, so this is a bit of a rare bird. The nose was almost syrah at first, the hints of green and tobacco appeared and a nice sweetness. On palate it was principally raspberries with some dill at the end. Nice.

1998 Nichol Syrah (BC) - not what you'd expect at all from this excellent vintage. As light as a pinot and a nose to match had us going in circles. Tight and well crafted, this is showing age with the fruit only showing up near the end.

2001 Sandhill Sangiovese (BC) - it was now comedy time, and don't take that as a shot at capable winemaker Howard Soon, as I tend to view all new world attempts at Italian varietals as suspect. Very sweet nose, light colour, flat on palate.

2001 Sandhill 3 (BC) - as the foregoing had mostly ended up in the dump bucket, our hero added insult to injury by proffering this as his back-up. A sangio, barbera blend with a bit of merlot and cab tossed in. It had not much nose at all, but at least had decent balance and fruit. It would not tempt any of us to but it, however.

2002 Sandhill Small Lots Cab Syrah (BC) - this came just in time to uphold our flagging opinion of this producer. Cocoa and fruit in the nose smooth in the mouth with great fruit in the middle and a coffee mocha finish. Pretty much made up for the last two.

1998 L'Ecole 41 Cabernet (Walla Walla) - this was everything the 1990 wasn't - briar and road tar nose, balanced with good fruit, tannin and length, and time to go yet.

1999 Glen Fiona Syrah (WA) - this Figgins wine had a stewed tomato nose, sweet caramelised fruit and a fair bit of tannin. OK I suppose, but not to my taste.

2002 Isenhower River Beauty Syrah (WA) - everything the previous wine wasn't, including being recognizably syrah. A big, black sweet wine packed with fruit and soft tannin, this solid offering has time to go yet. No rush.

1970 Warres Port - medium colour that placed it in the 70s (not as light as the 60s vintages are becoming) and a waxy warm sweet nose that was beautifully mature, an excellent balance with no undue heat in the finish. Very enjoyable. Guess I should leave my case of 1977 alone a few more years...

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Bill S.
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