Three Lovely 1990s - Dominus, Sammarco and Louviere

Notes from a dinner tasting.

1996 Lanson Gold Label Brut ? good mousse, tons of acidity, a very slight awkward raw edginess late in the midpalate, and pleasant yeastiness at the end.

2000 Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur ? fair bit of colour now, a really nice toasty complex nose, showing some age and no longer crisp, but good with the mussel soup it was served with. I checked the back label and it said can age up to 10 years. Bingo!

1985 Monticillo Rioja Gran Riserva ? pale garnet colour with a really nice dusty fruit nose, quite a bit of acidity, no tannin, very mature ? drink up. With a very impressive rabbit terrine.

1990 Ch. La Louviere ? good colour, very nice nose of dark fruit with hints of mushroom, juicy in the mouth, with good fruit on palate, soft tannins. At peak now.

1990 Dominus ? while this wine can often be a good Bordeaux ringer, at the outset only the nose could pass for claret ? the same sort of cedar and tobacco you?d find mixed with fruit. On palate it was definitely American, a bit darker, smooth and long with good structure and length. It did become a bit more Bordeaux like eventually, with time in the glass. This may continue to develop for a few years.

1990 Castello di Rampolla Sammarco ? normally about 85% cabernet and

15% sangiovese, the nose on this dark wine was all about cabernet. Great fruit intensity and a smoky herbal undertone beneath the primary plumy fruit. I also got a bit of cocoa a bit later and toward the end of the finish a hint of anise. I liked this wine a lot and it has a way to go yet before it hits plateau. Excellent.

These three were served with a steak and mushroom pie.

1988 Ch. Suduiraut ? the coconut nose I have come to expect of this now fairly dark amber wine, and it showed fairly sweet with decent length. I think this wine has peaked although it remains very pleasant and will for some time.

Great dinner, with the highlight being the comparison of three wines from the 1990 vintage from different parts of the world.

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Bill S.
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