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[TN] '05 Vocoret Blanchots

During a dinner at La Toque in Napa last week, I opted out of two of the suggested wine pairings and instead ordered a half bottle:

2005 Vocoret Chablis "Blanchots" Grand Cru color: shockingly dark yellow nose: initally, the distinct whiff of oxidation (browning apple peels), finally blowing off to reveal some citrus and a hint of minerality palate: fairly big and not terribly well focused, with just enough acidity

I'd ordered this half bottle after a conversation with one of the two circulating sommeliers, who assured me of a fairly traditional approach to winemaking at Vocoret. Indeed, there was little new oak in evidence, but a shocking amount of oxidation for an '05, even in a smaller format. I am leery to use the oft-repeated cry of "PremOx!" but there seems to be little alternative in this case. In any event, the wine was less precise than I look for in Chablis, no doubt at least partly due to the year.

Mark Lipton

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Mark Lipton
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I've been to La Toque many times over the years at their old location at Ranco Caymus Inn in Rutherford but I haven't been to the new location in Napa. I've bumped heads a few times with the "big" sommelier over mis-priced wines and the occasional corked bottle. I've never found him to be user friendly.

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Bi!!

The new location, as you likely already know, is in the Westin in Napa. It's less rustic than the old location, but all else is much as it was. No problems with either of the sommeliers that night (no idea if either was the "big" one, though I suspect that one we spoke the most with was) and they were in fact quite accommodating when I wanted to partake of only one of the 3 suggested wine pairings. I plan on soon writing up our experiences there and at Gary Danko here (and x-posting to ba.food). (The short version is that we preferred our meal at La Toque)

Mark Lipton

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Mark Lipton

I alwasy loved the food there as we usually stayed at Rancho Caymus (owned by Flora Springs family). The "big" one that I was referring to is a rather large man who has been there for years as the head sommelier. He got pissed (angry for you on the other side of the pond) when I pointed out that he had 1976 Heitz Martha's on the list for $100 (everything on that page of the wine list was listed at their cost) and jokingly asked if that was the real price or just a bait and switch. No sense of humor.

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Bi!!

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