TN: Bordeaux 1928-1989, plus Piedmont, bubbly, and white Burgundy

Last night I joined Mark on the train to the city, then we headed down to F ranco’s place for SOBER (Craig was hosting, but Franco has more space and isn’t in Brooklyn). Some misfortune and encounters with an a**hole had c hanged Craig’s dinner plans, yet it ended up a very successful evening.
The toddlers were in full showoff mode as we arrived (and very cute). We we re greeted with deviled eggs, a nice cheese assortment, and a couple of non -blind bubblies:
2002 Foreau Vouvray Brut Maybe not quite as fresh and expressive as a bottle last week, but I still found enjoyable. Apple and lemon curd, a little Parker house roll. B+
NV Egly Ouriet “Les Vignes de Vrigny” Champagne Brut Fuller, heavier style, dark fruit and bread, quite good if not in my most p referred style. B+
White Wine Flight #1 - this is a volatile nose, quite oxidizrd with stewed apple peels, too b ad, this would have been very interesting, 1999 de Montille " Caillerets" P uligny-Montrachet 1er (made by Roulot)
#2 -some concern re premox, but to me I’d make the distinction that this is advanced but not truly oxidized, Butterscotch, tropical fruits,not a lot of acid. This is fully mature, which would be fine if a 1990, a bit sad fo r a 2002. But interesting. 2002 Pinson “Les Clos” Chablis Grand Cru B/B -
#3 - this was a replacement for the premoxed 1999. Cathleen got Chablis imm ediately. Good fruit, chalky, full, long, I apparently liked more than most . 2007 Brocard “Les Clos” Chablis Grand Cru A-/B+
Craig used his fallback plan and ordered excellent pizza and antipasti from Motorino
First Red Flight Some quick calls for Right Bank, once we established St. Emilion I made a s tab at Magdelaine.
#1- red fruits, a touch ashy, really nice but this bottle outclassed for th is flight 1970 Ch. Magdelaine B+
#2- good dark fruit, lush but delineated, perfumed, lovely. 1975 Ch. Magdelaine A-
#3 -ripest and densest, full, good 1982 Ch. Magdelaine B+/A-
#4 - young, cassis and black plum, cocoa, cigarbox. Plenty of time left, bu t interesting development. 1989 Ch. Magdelaine A-
Great flight
Second Red Flight I think Tim and Mark both call Piedmont right away.
#1 - John D called Gattinara early . Mature, medium bodied, redder fruits, lots of mushroom, 1964 Berteletti Gattinara. B
#2- wildly divergent opinions on this wine. Some convinced it was corked. I didn’t get corked, but got VA, and some bretty aromas. But from Mark’s glass it did smell cardboardy. Cathleen (our TCA mine canary) say not cork ed, but it smells like vomit. Whew, that’s ok, because vomit blows off! T his stayed weird and funky, but we disagreed on exact flaw. 1967 Berteletti Spanna C-/D
#3- Mark got appellation and vintage quickly. Red fruit, tar, rose petals, quite nice and ready to go. Craig says $90, amazing bargain at that price. 1971 Bel Colle Barolo A-/B+
Third Red Flight #1 (a) first bottle was a bit muddled and tired, so Craig opened the backup (bottle b) Much better, dark fruit, coarser than wine #2, but lots of life , and our guesses started in the ‘60. 1928 Ch. Malartic-Lagraviere. B+/B
#2 Since initial guesses were Burgundy, I jokingly said it was Beychevelle when Craig said it was Bordeaux. Lovely, hauntingly complex, elegant, black and red currant fruit, tobacco, leather, sandalwood. 1929 Ch. Beychevelle A
Really nice dinner/tasting, despite the stresses.
Really fun night, Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellentwine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I would n't drink at aparty where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promi ses of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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DaleW
> Last night I joined Mark on the train to the city, then we headed down to Franco’s place for SOBER (Craig was hosting, but Franco has more space a nd isn’t in Brooklyn). Some misfortune and encounters with an a**hole had changed Craig’s dinner plans, yet it ended up a very successful evening. > > The toddlers were in full showoff mode as we arrived (and very cute). We were greeted with deviled eggs, a nice cheese assortment, and a couple of n on-blind bubblies: > > 2002 Foreau Vouvray Brut > Maybe not quite as fresh and expressive as a bottle last week, but I stil l found enjoyable. Apple and lemon curd, a little Parker house roll. B+ > > NV Egly Ouriet “Les Vignes de Vrigny” Champagne Brut > Fuller, heavier style, dark fruit and bread, quite good if not in my most preferred style. B+ > > White Wine Flight > #1 - this is a volatile nose, quite oxidizrd with stewed apple peels, too bad, this would have been very interesting, 1999 de Montille " Caillerets" Puligny-Montrachet 1er (made by Roulot) > > #2 -some concern re premox, but to me I’d make the distinction that thi s is advanced but not truly oxidized, Butterscotch, tropical fruits,not a l ot of acid. This is fully mature, which would be fine if a 1990, a bit sad for a 2002. But interesting. 2002 Pinson “Les Clos” Chablis Grand Cru B /B- > > #3 - this was a replacement for the premoxed 1999. Cathleen got Chablis i mmediately. Good fruit, chalky, full, long, I apparently liked more than mo st. 2007 Brocard “Les Clos” Chablis Grand Cru A-/B+ > > Craig used his fallback plan and ordered excellent pizza and antipasti fr om Motorino > > First Red Flight > Some quick calls for Right Bank, once we established St. Emilion I made a stab at Magdelaine. > > #1- red fruits, a touch ashy, really nice but this bottle outclassed for this flight > 1970 Ch. Magdelaine B+ > > #2- good dark fruit, lush but delineated, perfumed, lovely. > 1975 Ch. Magdelaine A- > > #3 -ripest and densest, full, good > 1982 Ch. Magdelaine B+/A- > > #4 - young, cassis and black plum, cocoa, cigarbox. Plenty of time left, but interesting development. > 1989 Ch. Magdelaine A- > > Great flight > > Second Red Flight > I think Tim and Mark both call Piedmont right away. > > #1 - John D called Gattinara early . Mature, medium bodied, redder fruits , lots of mushroom, 1964 Berteletti Gattinara. B > > #2- wildly divergent opinions on this wine. Some convinced it was corked. I didn’t get corked, but got VA, and some bretty aromas. But from Mark ’s glass it did smell cardboardy. Cathleen (our TCA mine canary) say not corked, but it smells like vomit. Whew, that’s ok, because vomit blows of f! This stayed weird and funky, but we disagreed on exact flaw. 1967 Bertel etti Spanna C-/D > > #3- Mark got appellation and vintage quickly. Red fruit, tar, rose petals , quite nice and ready to go. Craig says $90, amazing bargain at that price . 1971 Bel Colle Barolo A-/B+ > > Third Red Flight > #1 (a) first bottle was a bit muddled and tired, so Craig opened the back up (bottle b) Much better, dark fruit, coarser than wine #2, but lots of li fe, and our guesses started in the ‘60. 1928 Ch. Malartic-Lagraviere. B+/ B > > #2 Since initial guesses were Burgundy, I jokingly said it was Beychevell e when Craig said it was Bordeaux. Lovely, hauntingly complex, elegant, bla ck and red currant fruit, tobacco, leather, sandalwood. 1929 Ch. Beychevell e A > > Really nice dinner/tasting, despite the stresses. > > Really fun night, Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A i s an excellentwine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wou ldn't drink at aparty where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no pro mises of > objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
Hi Dale, Thanks for the notes. A distributor in Ohio that I used to be affiliated with recently picked up the entire Montille line which has changed somewhat since 1999 with the addition of a couple of properties. Here's a link to the story:
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ature/show/id/47032 I tasted through the 2008/9's and found the wines to be quite good.
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