TN: 12 (no 13) vintages of Magdelaine, Ukraine Aid International benefit

My friend Mark put together a spectacular tasting of the beloved but now gone Chateau Magdelaine at X20 on Yonkers waterfront Sunday. Everything was to benefit Ukraine Aid International, which provides water systems, medical supplies, and other humanitarian aid in both Eastern and Western Ukraine.

Mayer from UAI made a nice presentation before we got down to the wines. There were passed coconut shrimp and maki before we sat down, then I had a truffle/scallion risotto, short rib ravioli with broccoli rabe, and then we shared some 40 oz porterhouses. The steak and broccoli rabe were the highlights for me. Well, the wine was the highlight! John Gilman discussed the terroir, the history, and led the discussion about each flight.

2010 Ch. Magdelaine Lots of tannic structure, but fresh, with balanced oak and sweet black cherry fruit.Despite the tannin I find quite drinkable. B+ (A-/A potential)

2009 Ch. Magdelaine Ripe approaching roasted, but good underlying acidity. I actually have several magnums of this,I think may turn out well (like the ‘90) but who knows? B (?)

2005 Ch. Magdelaine A beauty in the making. Quite tight now, but lovely balance, grip, and oh so long. B+ (A)

2001 Ch. Magdelaine Lovely and perfumed, the most ready wine so far but with long future.Black plum with minty herbs, quite long. B+/A-

2000 Ch. Magdelaine Soft and lush, delicious if stylistically not my favorite, though I think very popular in the room. B/B+ (?)

1998 Ch. Magdelaine Young but complete and complex, lush dark fruits with incipient notes of coffee, smoke, and spice. My WOTL, A-/A (A)

Greg had brought a blind, which I totally whiffed on. Clearly Merlot, soft and herby, I was thinking a minor Pomerol, reminded me of 1999 Gazin. Oops, it was 2006 Ch Magdelaine. B/B-

1996 Ch. Magdelaine Some question as to being corked, but I didn’t get any TCA. I did find it maybe the least charming Magdelaine of the lunch, somewhat hard and thin though there were some attractive notes of tobacco and cigarbox. B- (?)

1995 Ch. Magdelaine Structured, a bit burly, yet still with that Magedelaine charm.B+/B (B+)

1990 Ch. Magdelaine Ripe black plum and cherry,, gamebird, smoke, rich and ripe without being roasted, I really liked! A-/B+

1989 Ch. Magdelaine I think in group discussions this suffered from being in company of ‘82 and ‘85, but really an outstanding wine in its own right. Similar flavor profile to the ‘90 but in a more chiseled profile, lovely grip and structure, no hurry. A-/B+ (A-/A)

1985 Ch. Magdelaine Elegant, refined, ready,though I am sure it will cruise for decades. I believe this won in group voting. Lovely. A-

1982 Ch. Magdelaine An old favorite, lovely as(almost) always. Rich and expressive, excellent length. Black cherry, espresso, sandalwood. A-

Really an amazing lineup, what an elegant and distinctive estate.

Besides the wines served, there were some great wines auctioned off (‘98 Magdelaine in magnum, a La La, a Massandra “port”, and a LMHB. The goal of the benefit was to pay for a water filtration plant in Ukraine that could serve 30,000 people a day, almost doubled the goal.

to Mark for his generosity and work, Ebru for an excellent job as sommelier,all who contributed and bid to make this a rousing success.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.