Last night Mark Golodetz organized a wine tasting - a vertical of Brane-Cantenac -as a benefit for the non-profit I direct. He supplied a large portion of the wines, with the rest being provided by Henri Lurton on Brane-Cantenac. Henri was present and provided fascinating insights into the vintages, history, winemaking, and business challenges of running a 2nd growth Margaux. A convivial group enjoyed the wines and were most generous towards our efforts to help the less fortunate.
The tasting was hosted by Stuart in a beautful Brooklyn townhouse. A rather amazing meal- bison tartare with truffle and fiddleheads wrapped in proscuitto, 7 onion soup, foie gras and mushrooms on blinis, pasta with sausage seasoned with incredibly aromatic truffle salt, wild salmon marinated with red wine and grapes, Brussels sprouts sauteed with pancetta fat, filet, a cheese course, dessert. I might have missed something!
1990 Jacquart Champagne Brut Millesime I didn't write anything down, but I quite liked this - yeasty and long2007 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) My first 2007, and actually a nice surprise. On the lighter side, but floral, refreshing, with "Margaux berries," light oak notes, and decent length. Not a vin de garde, but very correct, tasty, and drinkable Margaux. B/B+
Next up was a flight of three. Brane-Cantenac had done some experimentation with different types and aging of oak. Mark had obtained some of the barrel samples. We tried 2 with different degrees of seasoning, as well as the actual wine.
2006 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) barrel sample, barrels aged 24 months Some VA, spicy, doesn't seem as long as the other 06s. A bit disjointed (these were drawn off a few months early)2006 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) barrel sample, barrels aged 36 months More subtle and complex, but I still preferred the final blend.
2006 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Weightier than the 2006, fresh, pure, some oak, nice. Good length, concentration. B+2005 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Much more open than the 05 Canon day before, though it is still a bit in its shell. Cassis, coffee, tannins. I prefer the 06 for drinking now, but I think this will be very good. A- potential?
2004 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Medium bodied, herbal, some vanilla. A little tannic bite on finish, but drinking well already. B2003 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Flatter, softer, riper. Some really liked this, but easily my least favorite of the decade. B-/C+
2002 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Sturdy, structured, spice on the nose. A little austere, but nice in a sterner style. B2001 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Ripe, full, with dark berry fruit and espresso. Drinking well though I think it has enough tannic structure to last a while. Maybe could use a bit more acidity. B+/A-
2000 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Coffee, black plums, mint. Good structure, balanced tannins and acids, needs time but quite nice. A-/B+1999 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) One of the surprises of the night, ripe, ready, and more complex than I expected. Medium weight, drinking quite well. B+
1990 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Lifted nose, I'm pretty VA tolerant but this bothers me. This seems to me to be on downslope, though others liked. B-/C+1986 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Blackcurrants, cedar, for an 86 the tannins are rather fine and supple. Structured, maybe a tad less charming than the 83, but really quite good. B+/A-
1983 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) (magnum) My favorite WOTN. Lovely, balanced, red and black fruit, earth, mint/ menthol, cigarbox. Classic Margaux, a pointe but plenty of future. A-/ A(IIRC they said the 61 and 59 had been recorked at chateau in '86)
1961 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Sweet, solid, plenty of life, but I found less complex than the 59 (many others felt exactly the opposite). B+/B1959 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Red fruit, maple syrup, cedar, earth. A-
1955 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) Someone thought this corked, but I didn't. It was ripe with some troubling VA, actually held up in glass ok (actually improved a bit) but I think this is at end of its span. B1928 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) (Nicolas bottling) Wow. Unbelievably young. Sweet red fruit, forest floor, loam, lively. Certainly the complexity of age but not fading in the least. I think I preferred the 83 by a hair but the easily the most exciting wine to try. A-
Exceptional night. I don't have a lot of Brane-Cantenac experience, but was generally impressed with the consistency of the terroir representation. I seemed to find a lot to like in the lighter vintages and the more acidicly structured big vintages, it was only a couple of the uberripe ones that left me a bit disappointed, Brane-Cantenac is on my radar now, but maybe I'll be cautious in the jammy vintages.
Henri was gracious, informative, and patient. The generosity of Mark, the host, and participants was amazing, a very successful effort (Mark auctioned off additional bottles of the 59 and 61, as well as 3 vintages from the 70s that didn't arrive in time- we made more than twice the fundraising goal for the evening). I had my stepson act as chauffeur, but it was still 1 AM by time I got home. But worth it!