TN: Cal Cabs 1971-1987

Last night our Bordeaux group (well, supposedly, but lately we’ve been do ing as much other stuff) met at Ben’s in the Village for “California 19

87 & older.” Ben and Wendy have a lovely space, and more importantly a lo vely grace to their entertaining.

We had decided to do this blind, and Diane took on somm responsibilities. S he coordinated choices via email, and then as everyone arrived they deliver ed their wines and she bagged and put into flights. While this was being ar ranged, we noshed on nuts and olives next to the kitchen. There was a Tarla nt Champagne that I liked but didn’t love - I didn’t write down any det ails.

Before we sat, 2 whites made the rounds

2007 Sauzet “Champgains” Puligny-Montrachet 1er I thought this classic and lovely, long with pear and hazelnut aromas, drin king well already. A-/B+

2002 Ch. Montelena Chardonnay Oak sticks out a bit, but good acids and a crisp feel to it. Too oaky for s ome. B/B+

To table, where Ben had a nice plate of Spanish charcuterie (Serrano, lomo, salchichon, etc) , raw milk Manchego, quince paste.

Flight One Wine 1A- Minty, fleshy, much more mature than its flightmates. I didn’t t hink it tired though, just drinking nicely. 1976 Jordan Alexander. B+

Wine 1B - from magnum. At first acids were a bit intense/spiky, but with a nice framework underneath. Dark fruits, leather, cedar. Young. I got produc er with a lucky guess, but no clue re vintage. This was saved and decanted for end of evening, some liked less with air, I thought better as acids int egrated. Nice wine! 1971 Mayacamas. B+

Wine 1 C- herby, full, still apparent tannins, black cherry, mocha. Full, c omplete, delicious. Paul spotted his own wine right away. Miles to go. 197

6 Heitz “Martha’s Vineyard” A/A-

Flight Two Wine 2A- a little tight (served fairly cold), as it warms some spice and to bacco. 1977 Ch. Montelena. B+

Wine 2B= corked. Too bad, I’ve always liked the ‘78 Mondavi. NR

Wine 2 C - Solid , medium bodied, ready to go, less herby than most wines t onight, leather over moderate fruit. 1975 Stag’s Leap “Lot 3” B+/B

Next course was homemade pappadelle with incredible duck sugo, yum.

Flight Three Wine 3A - Fleshy, a bit low acid, but very nice in a plusher style. When someone suggested 3C could be a Silver Oak, I disagreed, but thought this could be the SO I brought(then I shut up, on rare occasions I get something right I like to not push luck) 1982 Silver Oak Alexander B+.

Wine 3B - caramel, brown sugar, this is cooked, baby! 1985 Spotteswood. NR

Wine 3C - Very minty, midbodied and elegant, there was some suggestion it c ould be an Aussie ringer. I liked this. Ringer yes, Aussie no. 1981 Ducru- Beaucaillou B+

Flight Four Wine 4A - Tired, caramel and a bit of VA on nose, not sure if bottle or win e. My least favorite of wines that might possibly be on form. 1986 Hess Re serve C

Wine 4B- well, better than flightmate. Lots of bell pepper, some mint, quit e short. 1987 Forman B-/C+

Luckily last flight went well with rare steak and broccolini

Flight Five Wine 5A - Powerful but with a sense of finesse, lots of earth, solid fruits , nice complete package, I loved this. 1986 Phelps Eisele A-

Wine 5B- a light tarry note, dark fruit, I’m surprised how ready this is when unveiled. 1983 Dunn Howell Mountain B

Wine 5C - this was added at last minute, so had breathed less than others. Redder fruits, mint, cedar, balanced acids, I liked. 1978 Jordan Alexander A-/B+

I’m not a dessert guy, but table sure enjoyed Wendy’s apple tart. Great night with a very good lineup of classic CalCab,

WOTN voting (each person allots 6 pts, typically 3, 2, 1)

76 Heitz MV 22 votes 86 Phelps Eisele 15 71 Mayacamas 4 76 Jordan 3 78 Jordan 3 75 SL Lot 3 3 1982 Silver Oak 1 77 Montelena 1

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a pa rty where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Reply to
DaleW
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doing as much other stuff) met at Ben’s in the Village for “California

1987 & older.” Ben and Wendy have a lovely space, and more importantly a lovely grace to their entertaining.

She coordinated choices via email, and then as everyone arrived they deliv ered their wines and she bagged and put into flights. While this was being arranged, we noshed on nuts and olives next to the kitchen. There was a Tar lant Champagne that I liked but didn’t love - I didn’t write down any d etails.

inking well already. A-/B+

o, salchichon, etc) , raw milk Manchego, quince paste.

think it tired though, just drinking nicely. 1976 Jordan Alexander. B+

a nice framework underneath. Dark fruits, leather, cedar. Young. I got prod ucer with a lucky guess, but no clue re vintage. This was saved and decante d for end of evening, some liked less with air, I thought better as acids i ntegrated. Nice wine! 1971 Mayacamas. B+

complete, delicious. Paul spotted his own wine right away. Miles to go. 1

976 Heitz “Martha’s Vineyard” A/A-

tobacco. 1977 Ch. Montelena. B+

tonight, leather over moderate fruit. 1975 Stag’s Leap “Lot 3” B+/B

en someone suggested 3C could be a Silver Oak, I disagreed, but thought thi s could be the SO I brought(then I shut up, on rare occasions I get somethi ng right I like to not push luck) 1982 Silver Oak Alexander B+.

could be an Aussie ringer. I liked this. Ringer yes, Aussie no. 1981 Ducr u-Beaucaillou B+

ine. My least favorite of wines that might possibly be on form. 1986 Hess Reserve C

ite short. 1987 Forman B-/C+

ts, nice complete package, I loved this. 1986 Phelps Eisele A-

s when unveiled. 1983 Dunn Howell Mountain B

. Redder fruits, mint, cedar, balanced acids, I liked. 1978 Jordan Alexande r A-/B+

at night with a very good lineup of classic CalCab,

e, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objecti vity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Lots of nice notes here, thanks. Not surprised by the Heitz or the Phelps I am surprised that you didn't note any eucalyptus or mint in the Heitz.

1974 Martha's was my epiphany wine.
Reply to
Bi!!

What a great lineup of wines, Dale. You had a real "murderer's row" group of wines there. Pity about the Mondavi, and I wonder if the Montelena would have shown better warmer (and with possibly more air). I do have to note, though, that I've never really felt that Montelena (and several other CalCabs) ever really develops any tertoary characteristics. They just seem to be nigh unto immortal.

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

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