TN: Donnhoffs and du Tertres (and an old Barbaresco surprise)

Feb 28, 2005 0 Replies

Friday Betsy made a light dinner, vegetarian tacos. I served the 2002 Dönnhoff Riesling QbA (Nahe). Betsy says "this is really good" and I have to agree. White peaches, a little cherry note, stony finish. Sweet without being cloying, very nice $14 wine. B+



The next night we have some friends for dinner. I pick up Chris, Matt, & Kristen at station, we go to our home and then are joined by our friends Marc & Annabelle. Appetizers are canapes with piquillo peppers and anchovies, plus some cheese-stuffed dates (a bit ofa miscalculation on my part, I used some Pyrennes goat cheese, something a little less dry would have melted better).



With appetizers, the 1999 Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet. Nicely balanced, some fat but with enough acidity to keep lively, light oak and nut aromas over a core of white & tropical fruit. This is no showstopper, but a competent and pleasant representation of a village level wine. B/B+.



Matt had brought a 2003 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett. This might actually stop a show. I've been hesitant re '03 Germans because of acidity worries. This one shows sweet Fuji apples with a hint of peaches, an edge of spice. Long mineral finish. Acidity nicely balances the light sweetness, no worries on this one. Classy, classic Nahe Riesling. A-



First course was a creamy mushroom -yellow foot and shiitake- dish (I think the recipe is from Bill Spohn) in filo shells. I planned this as a dish for Burgundy, and served the 1999 Françoise & Denis Clair "Clos de la Comme" Santenay 1er Cru. This was pretty shy at first, showing some earth but more structure than fruit. Betsy gave a thumbs down, and I wasn't really arguing. But a glass much later in the evening showing a rather balanced midweight Burg, with none of the rusticity I associate with Santenay. A B- during dinner, B+ later.



I also like Nebbiolo with 'shrooms, and opened the 1980 Abbona "Vigna Faset" Barbaresco Riserva. I didn't have high hopes for this - mediocre vintage, middling producer. Shows how much I know. A bit of browning, but still some clear cherry fruit. Nose has some tar and roses (Chris also mentions a licorice note- I hadn't but do once he points out). Ideally, this probably should have been drunk 5-8 years ago, but still alive and still enjoyable. A-/B+



Main course was leg of lamb with an anchovy-garlic rub, wrapped in bacon. Sides were rice with peas and green beans. We had a little mini-vertical with the lamb:


1998 Ch. du Tertre (Margaux)- pretty nice nose of dark fruit with a tobacco edge. Nice flavors, but maybe a tad diluted. I also found the finish a bit short. Still some slightly green tannins. My guess is it'll improve over a few years, but this will never be an exciting wine. B


1999 Ch. du Tertre (Margaux)- Herby nose, ripe blackcurrant fruit. Medium-bodied, nice balance of acidity, fruit, and light tannins. Some earth and cigarbox after awhile. I don't this is going to improve much, but for drinking now it's pretty classic for a bargain Bordeaux. B/B+


1982 Ch. du Tertre (Margaux)-closed at first, then opened quietly. Ripe roasted red fruit, some autumn leaves, a little cedar. That roasted note isn't my favorite, and again this is a wine that would have been well-served by consumption a few years before. But holding on. B/B+ After salad we took a short cellar tour, where I THOUGHT I grabbed a '98 Baumard. Later Matt pointed out that was actually the 2000 Baumard Quarts du Chaume. Apple and apricot fruit, with a light note of citrus peel. Nice acid backbone. Surprisingly good for a so-so vintage. B+

Chris had brought the 2001 Lafon (Sauternes). My palate was fading by this point, but this is pretty primary at the moment, honey and apricot in a sweet style. Enough acidity to mostly balance the sweet. B/B+ The dessert wines were served with cheeses (Jasper Hill Farm Bayley Hazen Blue, a 5 year Gouda, and a heart-shaped Pyrenees goat cheese whose name has escaped me, though I know Coeur was part of it) and Marc's chocolate mousse with orange.



Really nice night, the wines good enough as a group that I had enough was REALLY glad I was already at home. Nice group, generous friends (Matt had also brought a Ceretto white -Arneis?- that never got served). Tonight Betsy made a version of the Singapore noodle dish, Char Kway Teow. There was some of each Dönnhoff left, went well with the spice. The Qba was still holding on, the Kabinett was even better, with more a note of orangeade than I had noted before. \



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency



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