Betsy made a Mark Bittman recipe from Wednesday's NYT of spareribs with oil-cured olives. I opened the 1999 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva (this is not the Rancia, but straight Berardenga CCR, which I think might be for US market only?). I thought I caught some mildewy funk, then it disappeared, only to reappear sporadically through the meal. Is this corked, or not? I decided not, as there was no "fruit scalping", there's plenty of black cherry fruit here. Good acidity, fairly full-bodied for Chianti, a little cedary oak note. Pretty good, except every once in a while I get that funk. Day 2 it's clear- this is corked after all. Don't see how I thought otherwise, by day 2 the moldy book aromas could knock one down.
Thursday Betsy made a steak rubbed with garlic over greens with a caper/horseradish dressing; while the steak said "big red" the dressing wasn't something I felt like risking a pricey wine on. So I opened an orphan (I think someone brought to a party), the 2001 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). I liked this a bit less than a recent bottle- the fruit has a simple grapey quality to it. Dark fruit with edge of sweetness, some vanilla/oak aromas. Clean but boring. B-
Friday Betsy was working, I had leftovers (thawed lamb stew, greens, and the last spare rib). I opened a 375 of 2000 Cap de Merle (Lussac St. Emilion). Another simple boring wine. Ripe red fruit, slightest hint of earth. Not much on the finish, and one searching for complexity would do better in a Celine Dion song. Blah. C+
The problem with thawing lamb stew is that there's a lot, but as I was baching it tonight as Betsy played I was happy to have more. I opened the 2001 Les Cruzelles (Lalande de Pomerol). Not as Merlot-soft as many Lalande de Pomerols, this one has a real backbone. Red and black fruits, light cedar notes, expressive nose of earth and flowers. Good finish. There are some tannins that could use a couple years to integrate, but a very good wine for drinking fairly young. Good deal at $17. B+/A-
Earlier today visited Zachy's briefly. They had a very nice tasting on, with Becky Wasserman. She had brought the winemaker, David Croix, from Domaine Camille Giroud. Usual disclaimers as to any store tasting- small pours (though pourers were actually pretty generous, esp. M. Croix), quick tastes, and no knowledge of any decanting.
2002 Camille Giroud "La Croix Aux Moines " Maranges (I think this was a 1er Cru, $24.99) Rich for Maranges, red fruit, ripe and ready. B+2002 Camille Giroud "Guerets" Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru ($55.00) Not really showing a lot, some tannins and muted dark fruit. B-
2002 Camille Giroud "Clos des Chenes" Volnay 1er Cru ($49.99) Earthy nose, clean black cherry fruit, nice finish. Good price for a Clos des Chenes, but I'm already heavy on Volnay so pass. A-/B+2002 Camille Giroud Vosne Romanee ($39.99) QPR winner of the day for me. Good concentrated dark fruit, ripe but with good acidity, a tannic backbone setting this up for some cellar time. Fine minerally finish. A-
2002 Camille Giroud Gevrey-Chambertin ($31.99) Earthy and chewy, raspberry fruit, ok but a tad short on finish. B/B-2002 Camille Giroud "Lavaux St. Jacques" Gevrey-Chambertin ($63.00) Tannic and needs time. Lots of dark fruit. B+
2002 Camille Giroud Latricieres-Chambertin (136.00) Quite tannic for Pinot, though good. Raspberry and licorice flavors. Needs time. B+/A-2002 Camille Giroud Chapelle-Chambertin ($127.00) Lusher than the Latricieres. Dark fruit, earth, and animal aromas. A-
2001 Camille Giroud Clos de Beze ($178.00) Strawberry and raspberry fruit, dense, almost impenentrable. B+?2001 Camille Giroud Corton-Renardes ($68.00) Big Pinot, concentrated dark fruit, lively and good. A-/B+
There were another dozen wines, but I only tasted a few:
2002 Gerard Mugneret Bourgogne Passetoutgrains ($13.99) Bigger riper style, honestly I would have guessed pure Pinot, albeit a lighter Bourgogne. Pleasant wine with good acidity, worth a try-probably quite food-friendly. B
2003 Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne Rouge ($14.99) I ran into a BWE acquaintance who recommended this one. I can see why- sappy, jammy, ripe Bourgogne. I think this would be a real crowdpleaser, but lacking just a tad of acidic backbone for my tastes. B/B+2002 Lignier-Michelot "En la Rue de Vergy" Morey St. Denis 1er cru ($42.99) Ripe red fruit, a little smoke and stones, but not exciting. B/B+
2002 Lignier-Michelot Clos de la Roche ($93) Kirsch fruit, this is very modern-styled Burgundy. Moderate tannins, light acidity, good finish. Not my favorite style, but well-made. B+Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency