TN: I drink Bo Nouveau! Plus Duhart and a former QPR fave

Someone had left a bottle of 2003 Rosemount Estate Shiraz (Australia) (aka diamond label) at our house at a party several months ago. When Betsy needed some red wine for a recipe Monday, I had told her that was fine to use. There were 8 oz left, and I sampled. My notes: "sweet, oakchip vanilla, sweet, blackberry fruit, sweet, soft, sweet" Just way too sweet. Now in the mid-90s this was a fallback party wine, good QPR at $6. Has the wine changed that much or my tastes? C/C+ Wednesday the NYTimes had an article on Beaujolais. Florence Fabricant's suggested pairing was a curried roast chicken "Durban style" (out of South Africa from Indian immigrants). Now, this recipe was designed to match good standard or cru Beaujolais. But lurking in my cellar was a bottle of the 2004 Terres Dorres (JP Brun) L'Ancien Beaujolais Nouveau. I hadn't bought a bottle of BN in 10+ years, but had spotted this in store and thought I'd try, as I'm a Brun fan - I've never had old -vine Nouveau before. But it sat forlorn in the cellar for months. So it came out for a patio meal with the chicken, steamed asparagus, and some tri-color couscous. Clean raspberry fruit with a slight touch of bitterness to keep it from being totally fruit-driven, maybe a slight touch of earth. Fun and easy. There's nothing complex here, and the finish is quite short ("dammit, Dale, it's Nouveau, what do you expect? A 22.7 second finish!?!?"). But a pleasant wine to drink cool on a warm evening. Lots of sediment. B

Thursday Betsy was working and I grilled a small ribeye, accompanied by a smorgasbord of sides (ok, leftovers). I opened the 2001 Duhart-Milon (Pauillac). I'm not totally sure why I bought several of these, I don't remember tasting, and haven't really been a fan of the Duhart except for the 1996. This is fairly open from the start, with cassis and red plum fruit. Comes across as quite oaky. There's some Bordeaux earth there, but the unintegrated oak is the so prominent that it's hard to focus on any nuances. Over a couple hours the oak recedes just a bit, there's some graphite/lead pencil in this fat puppy. Low-acid and medium-bodied. I like better after some air. I'll let the others sit in cellar to see if the oak integrates over a few years, but I can't see this one being a real low-term ager- just not enough acidity and structure. B/B+?

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

Reply to
DaleW
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I've wondered the same thing, Dale. Back in the late '80s, Jean and I would buy Rosemount Diamond Mountain Reserve Cab/Shiraz by the case as a house wine, and occasionally "splurge" with the Shiraz. Returning to these wines, I find them simple, grapey and -- yes -- sweet, though not so much as Yellowtail. Pity that we didn't keep a few bottles of the old stuff around for a side-by-side comparison ;-)

I'm surprised that Brun even does a BN. What's the motivation, I wonder? His L'Ancien is such a good wine that I'd think he'd be better off selling it all in that form. Young vines, perhaps (the name argues against that, however)

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

"I'm surprised that Brun even does a BN. What's the motivation, I wonder? His L'Ancien is such a good wine that I'd think he'd be better

off selling it all in that form. Young vines, perhaps (the name argues

against that, however) "

Definitely not young vines- in addition to the "L'Ancien" nomeclature, there's a Vieilles Vignes designation in corner.

My guess? One or both of 2 things:

1) Before the BN hype of the 70s/80s, there was a tradition of using a bit of the juice for BN, and Brun is a (modern quality oriented) traditionalists. 2) Cash flow. One of the tough things in most agriculture livelihoods is that sales come once a year. A little infusion of cash in the fall might be welcome.

BTW, this was about $10, not substantially less than the regular L'Ancien.

cheers,Dale

Reply to
DaleW

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