TN: Midnight Plane from GA (Lohr, Quintessa, de Forville, etc)

Friday my mom & dad wanted to take the family out for dinner. They chose a place called Silos in Crabapple, GA. My brother likes wine, but is hardly a geek, and my parents don't care about wine. I was handed the wine list as we arrived, to order a bottle for my dad, brother, Betsy, and myself. Not a very exciting list. Best red and maybe best deal (though no steal!) was the 2001 Justin Isosceles at $90. But there was no way to justify ordering a $90 wine on my dad's bill. I contemplated way-laying the waitress and ordering the Justin on a separate bill, but thought my dad would be insulted. So ended up ordering a cheaper ($32) 2001 CalCab. When it came it was actually the 2002 J. Lohr "Seven Oaks" Cabernet Sauvignon, but I said ok. Luckily it wasn't corked (I didn't want to have to explain sending back bottle!); the wine was certainly ripe. Lots of black plum and cassis fruit, some oak, ok wine for its niche except for an exceedingly short finish.B- I was concentrating on my food (mediocre lamb chops - I ordered rare, they ranged from rare to medium, but really delicious black-eyed pea relish and cheese grits), and didn't spot the waitress doing the old "refill the glasses of those barely drinking" bit until it was too late. My brother ran out of wine before his steak was done, he ordered a glass of the 2000 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon, which was far less ripe than the Lohr, even a bit green, in a slightly more austere package. But there was a bit more complexity here, and the finish wasn't as clipped. OK. B

Our last meal in Atlanta was at my brother's home. Doug opened the 2000 Quintessa (Napa). I wasn't that impressed with a couple of previous tastes of Quintessa, and thought with 2000 vintage this would be a disappointment. But this is actually a nice example of a CA "meritage" blend, medium to full-bodied, good deep black fruit, smooth vanilla-oak, good finish. B+/A- Earlier in day I had stopped at a better wine store than my earlier Alpharetta experience. Good selection of wines, with staff who knew their stuff and could answer questions re storage. I picked up a 1997 Louis Latour Savigny-Les-Beaunes to go with Saturday's dinner (halibut and salmon from my brother's Alaska fishing trip). Light to medium body, modest oak, delicate pear/apple fruit with hints of a (not-unpleasant) cheesy odor. B We flew out late that evening, and spent a rainy Sunday at home. Betsy made duck legs, with a napa cabbage/apple side and roast potatoes. The wine was the

1996 de Forville Barbaresco. This was a wine I had picked up from a closeout bin at Zachys- an assortment of Italians for $15 & $25. My impression was these weren't part of Zachy's normal inventory, and these wines' provenance might be a little less than perfect. But at $15 I thought this was worth a chance. Tight upon opening (cork was in good shape, btw) , I gave it a couple hours air. The tannins and acid gradually gave way to let some red fruit flavors show through, with abundant flowers and tar. Whiffs of earth and leather. This is a pretty good wine, though overly mature for a 1996 Barbaresco from a traditonal maker, and with just the slightest hint of stewed cherries on the finish. My guess is this was stored at room temperature before Z's acquisition. At $15 I might still pick up more if it's there next time I'm by, but not making a trip for it. B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

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Dale Williams
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And, since you mention Justin, it gives me an excuse to provide some info on recent experience. I joined the Justin Wine Society and began getting a six-pack twice a year this fall. The first package consisted of six different bottlings from 2002. So far, I've gone through five of the six and have ordered more of four out of five.

These included the Justin Cabernet Sauvignon '02, which I found to be one of the best Calif. cabs I've tasted in recent years at that price point (about $18/bottle for Justin Wine Society members.) Drinking well upon release, it was warm, full, fruity and with a great finish. Loads of ripe blackberry, dark cherry, toffee and a hint of leather. Very nice wine.

Also had the Mouvedre, which is a varietal I usually don't like. Justin describes it as full-bodied with mocha and black cherry. I found it much lighter than expected and while it had a load of black fruit I didn't get the mocha. I did get a very pronounced floral note on the nose. Still quite pleasant in a light, almost cru Beaujolais style.

Then there was the Malbec (again a varietal I tend to stay away from). It was big and warm with leather, smoke, chocolate and ripe August berries. Mouth-filling and very long finish. Loved it.

Justin Obtuse is a port-style and really fills the bill. Tastes a lot like a ruby "vintage" porto and at under $20 will be worth holding a half dozen for a couple of years to see how it matures.

The tasting I didn't buy was the Justin Justification which is a mostly cabernet franc blend. I usually love cab franc, but this didn't seem to come together at all. Very flat and with little of distinction.

Remaining is a white, viognier/chardonnay blend.

I can't wait for the spring package when the syrah and Isoceles will be included.

Ed Rasimus Fighter Pilot (USAF-Ret) "When Thunder Rolled"

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Ed Rasimus

Dale, Thanks for the notes. I don't say it every time, but I do enjoy them every time. E.

Reply to
winemonger

Just ordered the reds package. Not so sure about getting everything yet.

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Lawrence Leichtman

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