2003 Chateau Laulerie (Bergerac) This seems a caricature of the vintage at first, very ripe -nay, overripe- black plum fruit with some tannins but little supporting acidity. On night two it had settled down a bit and was a little more pleasant,but still spoke more of the hot summer of 2003 than of Bergerac. Some cassis and vanilla, this could pass for an average modern Bdx satellite from a ripe year. Not enticing, but servicable. B-
2002 Defaix Chablis Modest chalky/flinty notes over somewhat anemic apple fruit. I don't get any oak here, and I really TRY to like this wine. But while the flavors hit the right notes for my Chablis jones, there's just not enough flavors. I like light, but this borders on weak. B-
2004 Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon Ah, whew. This is more like it. Vibrant acidity, grass and bright fruit (tropical and grapefruit, even a hint of strawberry), a gunflint minerality and a clean finish. Not as exotic as the Numero 5, but an excellent example of why I don't need Mike Steinberger as my wine coach. Great with a dish of shrimp and leeks over pasta. B++
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.