TN: Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Cuvee Anne 1976

The wine is Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Cuvee Anne 1976. I bought 4 bottles at auction from the Chicago Wine Company shortly after it was released. It has been properly stored since, the fill is high, and there were no cork or other issues.

A little background may be useful.Cuvee Anne is seldom produced, and in the 70s only 1971 and 1976 were made. Although 1976 was too hot and dry in some areas, it was perfect for late harvest Gewurztraminer in vineyards owned by Schlumberger. This Cuvee Anne is said to have the highest must weight ever recorded in Alsace. The mustmeter was off scale, and it had to be diluted to half strength to measure and then multiply be two. Clive Coates was so impressed, that he rated it as 10 on a scale of 5!, and Coates is not prone to inflate ratings.

This wine should be served chilled, but not very cold; else some of the bouquet may be hidden. The color is a brilliant gold that nearly seems to sparkle. It is remarkably smooth, and has a velvet texture that seems to coat the mouth as would cream or a light oil. The bouquet is extremely complex and suggests tropical fruits such as papayas, mangos, and also temperate fruits such as white peaches. There also is a spice component, perhaps cinnamon. There is just the right amount of smooth acid to balance the extreme sweetness. I could not even guess the alcohol content, as the extreme sweetness an intense bouquet and taste hide alcohol very well. The label does not give alcohol content other than by "table wine". The aftertaste is extremely long. It compares very well with a top German TBA, although this is much like comparing apples and oranges, since the top German TBAs often are Riesling wines and thus have a different bouquet and taste profile.

If one can find a bottle of this that has been properly stored, it would be well worth tasting. Even using the pay pro version of wine-searcher, I only found one store in the world that has 4 bottles. Of course wine-searcher does not pick up everything, and then there are auctions. The cost at the store is a few hundred dollars, while you can pay much, much more for many other top wines. Even a 1 oz pour would be plenty to evaluate this wine, so several people could share the expense. Just do not use a large glass, unless you have a very long tongue, or you will leave much wine in the glass as it runs down the sides very slowly because of the high viscosity.

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For the record, Flickinger is a reputable outfit in Chicago (IIRC, Dale mentioned that it is a retail arm of Winebid or something of the sort -- feel free to correct me, Dale). I know people who deal with them on a regular basis and think quite highly of them. Curiously, despite my proximity, I have not done business with them.

Mark Lipton

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Mark Lipton

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