TN: Surprise! I like a Shiraz more than a Burg

Jun 08, 2005 9 Replies

Monday Betsy didn't have much time for prep, and picked up some kebabs (couple lamb, 1 chicken) and some beef/cheese "pinwheels" at local deli. Chicken cooked ok, lamb chunks were a bit irregular and too big so a little hard to get right. And don't get me started on the pinwheels- in oven maybe, but what a mess on the grill. The wine was the 2002 Sylvie Esmonin Côte de Nuits-Villages. Ripe raspberry fruit bordering on jammy, not showing a lot on the finish. Seemed more closed down than earlier bottle, maybe this is a stage, but not worth $15-20. B-



Tuesday I had a board meeting. 50% of my board are homeless or formerly homeless, and we try to serve them dinner before meeting. Joe, a homed board member volunteered to host, and we grilled steaks on his back porch. Nice meat, Betsy's potato salad, nice green salad, and some portabellos. There was soft drinks, tea, beer and red wine available, I purtook of a small glass of red, the 2003 Borsao. Indeed riper than the say '99-'02 Borsaos, but not over the top. Good red fruit, a bit of spice, ok balance. Would have preferred more acidic zip, but still a good $6 wine (I always prefer to the Tres Picos). B



After the meeting I saw off the guys from streets, then returned to try and help cleanup. But Joe, his wife Rachel, and Betsy had already done so. Joe suggested we return to the porch for a glass of wine, and we tried the 2001 Bleasdale Bremerview Shiraz. OK, this is a soft easy almost sweet Shiraz -not exactly my preferred style. But I found myself liking it. This is soft and easy, but not structureless -there's some acid and tannin. And the sweetness is a sweet fruit flavor, not outright RS. Oak is quite noticable, but I don't find obtrusive in this non-dinner setting. Nice finish. I'm not sure this is a great food wine, but for sitting on a porch on a warm summer night with friends, fits the bill. B+



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency



Dale, I had the '03 Tres Picos in CA: classic, cherryish Grenache and not overripe at all. Jean and I both agreed that we preferred it to the '02 Brunier Telegramme that we'd had a few weeks earlier (and another all-Grenache wine).

Blame it on the heat, Dale, and deny everything ;-)

Mark Lipton

Mark Lipton wrote in news:d87jsp$61r$1 @mailhub227.itcs.purdue.edu:

Hi all,

Both Campo de Borja and Calatayud share a characteristic: altitude. The vines are planted quite high and, then, they enjoy low temperatures in summer nights. So, it does not matter how torrid the summer is, the contrast between day and night allows to some acidity to remain in the grapes.

This is why good Grenache wines from both D.O. usually are fresh, even if one is tempted to think that a grenache based wine from the Spanish inland should be characterised by overmaturity.

Best,

Santiago

[SNIP]

Nice finish. I'm not sure this is a great food

As always, thanks for the TNs. Regardless of what some say, there are wines that are drinkers, and then some that are meant for food. Most CA Chards fall into the former category for me.

I've not had any of these wines, but will look for the Shiraz. I've seen Bleasdale on the shelves, but have yet to pick up a bottle.

Hunt

Hi Santiago,

I also admit to enjoying the low cost Campo de Borja, and was surprised about the freshness until somebody exlained about the altitude...

Last weekend in the Cinque Terre I tasted the Grenache from my friend Walter De Batte', planted at 400-500m on steep slopes overlooking the sea. This was his first harvest from those vines, and the results were magnificent, tasted from the tank while still on its lees.

Bye

Mike Tommasi, Six Fours, France email link

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thanks for informative reply, Santiago! Always enjoy your insights on Spanish wine.

Mark, ny experience with the Tres Picos (don't think I've had the '03) isn't so much a sur-maturite issue as it being just..too much. I prefer the lighter regular cuvee (which I think is tempranillo and grenache?). Big Grenache isn't a favored style for me.

I plan on getting one, to try and assure myself it wasn't just the fact I was enjoying myself on a nice porch after a LONG day that made me like it!

Will be in a couple of years. For now it is truly the first wine from new vines.

Be aware that the tradition of whites in this region (Eastern Liguria) is so strong that serving a red to someone is considered offensive...

Walter is changing that and approaching the subject with great depth, looking beyond administrative regions to the entire northern mediterranean to find suitable and coherent choices.

Cheers

Mike Tommasi, Six Fours, France email link

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