TN: The Fast and The Fleurieous

Jun 11, 2004 0 Replies

Tuesday I agreed to do a short speech at a civic group in Northern Westchester, then found out we were supposed to go to dinner at friends. I made my apologies that I would have to arrive late, set out a bottle for Betsy to take, and went and did my duty. I called to check in as I left speech, Betsy said she had forgotten wine, could I stop by house and get some. Seemed simpler to stop at a store. Unfortunately, store in question had an absolutely pitiful selection. Lots of massmarket magnums, a few overpriced bottles (mostly mediocre, unknown, or worse producers from prestigious areas). As I was despairing, I spotted the



2000 Cambon la Pelouse (Haut-Medoc). A bit overpriced at $17.99, but still best deal in store, and probably an ok match for bison burgers. Popped it immediately upon arrival (after making my apologies). Quite tight, moderately tannic. Mix of red and black fruit, some new oak odors. I can't quite get the excitement others have expressed about this. I liked it a bit better on a previous occasion when I decanted a bit before dinner. I was so late dinner was almost over when I arrived, and we didn't stay long enough to see if air would help. A probably unfairly low B/B-

Ferociously hot day Wednesday, but the breeze was up and it had cooled a bit by



8, so I grilled. Some lamb chops with mint/cilantro relish (nice recipe from Waldy Malouf) and some endive (which we served topped with some great olive oil from Sportoletti - I think a better deal than their $50 wine!); we also had with green beans and leftover pasta salad. I know lamb means Pauillac, but it was too hot to drink Bdx, and besides the herbs might need something sprightlier. So I lightly chilled a bottle of 2002 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie. Great floral nose, zippy acidity (heightened by the chilling) , nice black cherry and raspberry fruit. Nice length and finish. Just the thing on a warm night, B+/A-

There's a brand-new cheese shop in Dobbs, paid my first visit earlier that day. At end of meal we were enjoying the cool night breeze and having some St. Nectaire. When suddenly what to my wondering eyes should appear, but a long-eared head over a table edge, and about 3 ounces of good cheese became Basset history. Sigh.



Thursday we both had a long day, but as it was cooler we didn't mind using the stove. Betsy whipped up some chicken breast in a spinach/marinara/cream sauce, served over pasta. We opened the



1995 Tenuta di Sesta Brunello di Montalcino. Ripe cherries and a hint of leather on the nose, initially rather shy black cherry fruit on the palate. Some time opened it up quite a bit. Moderate acidity and tannins. Some light cigarbox and spice. Nice balanced wine, could go longer, but really quite drinkable now. I'm becoming a fan of '95s as nice wines for the medium-term (and priced so much better than '97, '98, '99 -this was $20 on closeout). B+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. Dale



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