TN: TTG#2 -- 10 1990/97 Sangiovese, 2 Champagnes, 1 Old Vouvray

*1997 Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico Riserva

Not noticeably lighter or softer in color, but the nose immediately gives off a bright cherry fruit and higher-toned floral element that says we're drinking something different. All the leather and tar and a little darker fruit sweetness are there, but this just has a brightness and acid penetration that the last three wines didn't. On the palate, there are tannins that need a little time, but the cherry core, wild berry highlights, and chiseled acid definition make it lovely to drink tonight. Don't mistake me; this is not a light wine, but it remains deft on its feet while the midpalate fills up with a little darker fruit and the strong finish shows the slightest hints of leather, pine, tobacco, and wood. I love it now, but it will be much better with time for the tannins to smooth out and the secondary nuances to become more than just hints. I think I voted for this as wine of the flight. If I didn't, I certainly would forty-eight hours later.

Don't get me wrong; I _love_ the '97 Rancia! I'm just not sure it's Chianti Classico. IIRC, it's from outside the DOC (or is it DOCG?)..

I snagged a bottle of it a couple of years ago and after tasting went back for more. As I recall, it didn't really show it's stuff until the bottle was nearly gone - about 3 to 4 hours after opening. Wonderful, deeply complex wine. This is what great Italian wines are all about.

Tom S