TN: Wines in Orange County with Tom S.

We flew to Southern CA last week. I should have known when I got the upgrade to a convertible that Orange County was in for a week of rain. We stopped in Westminster for excellent Vietnamese food, then went to Betsy's grandmother's in Laguna Beach. Usually Betsy does the cooking while we're there, but this time her grandmother had prepared some lasagna and the like for us. I popped into the local Ralph's, and bought a bottle of 2003 Ca del Solo Big House Red. Warm ripe red, with some overlays of pepper and earth. As usual, nothing is dominant here- about 7 or 8 different grapes in the mix. For $10 I'm happy with a screw-capped fruit forward food-friendly wine with a funny label for the non-wine-lovers. B

Friday Kriss Reed from WLDG had arranged a small dinner, we met at 230 Forest in Laguna (thanks Kriss and Tom Shudic for making the drive, so Betsy and I could walk to dinner!). Very pleasant evening, with a nice lineup of wines:

NV Louis Martini Moscato Amabile This is only available at the winery, and needs to be kept under refrigeration to avoid a secondary fermentation. Moderate sweetness and very light petillance (no pop when opened, but some bubbles as poured). Sweet peaches and a funny touch of chalk. Doesn't show especially well as an apertif, but might be very nice with something spicy (maybe a Thai dish with a lot of birds eye chiles, for instance). B- on this night.

2001 Ch. Burbank Chardonnay Tom S. brought this wine he had made. My notes read "fat and figgy, the wood needs some time." Now, big CalChards aren't my personal favorite style. But this (true) garage wine had some real character- rich tropical fruit with a caramel edge. Kriss said it went well with his butternut squash soup (it paired less successfully with my calamari and lemon beurre blanc). This is a big rich wine with some spice. It needs some time for the oak to fully integrate, and rich food to stand up to it. B+

2002 Polz Grassnitzberg Pinot Gris Now this did better with the calamari. Deceptively light-bodied, but in the mouth there's concentrated fruit and a long finish. Nose has some floral/honey notes. Great acidity, and that finish keeps on coming. Delightful wine, I complain to Kriss that in NY we seldom see Styrian wines, though we get lots of other Austrians. A-/B+

1999 Sesti Brunello di Montalcino A bit tight at first, then some clear Sangiovese fruit. Quite primary as one expect, but after a while some flowers (violets) and smoke notes danced around the dense black cherry fruit. Good acidic balance, light ripe tannins. Not quite as charming as last bottle, but showed pretty well. A-/B+

1996 Rene Renou "Beauregard" Bonnezeaux I've had a couple other Renou '96s (though not the Zenith), this one was a bit of a disappointment. Some waxy/wooly aromas, sweet pears and apricots. A touch of citrus. All well and good, but this doesn't seem quite complete. There's something disjointed. Awkward stage, some moderate heat damage (though from same source as other Renous), or something? Who knows, another B- for this night.

Really a fun night, with nice company. Kriss was funny and informative (and really filled us in on things like where to food-shop in Orange County, very useful stuff for next visit). Tom was both generous and warm (and talked with Betsy re cooking when Kriss and I were getting too wine-geeky for her). The service at the restaurant was quite friendly, and they only charged us corkage for 2 bottles. They also took my steak off the bill (first try at medium rare was grey, second was better). The seafood dishes seemed to have an edge over the meat overall.

Saturday we visit relatives in LA/Santa Monica, stop by Wine Expo, then head back to Laguna. Dinner for 2 at a Greek place with a great view. We have taramasalata and some assorted Greek dishes (heavy on the lamb), with a bottle of the 1998 Boutari Naoussa Grande Reserve. Made from Xinomavro, but Xinomavro masquerading as KJ Merlot. Soft, ripe red fruit, lots and lots of oak. I'm a cheap bastard and seldom will leave wine I've paid for, but close to half the bottle is left as we leave. C+/B-

We flew home Sunday AM (after stopping again in Westminster for some banh mi for breakfast and the plane ride- that's going to be our pattern from now on- thanks for suggestion Kriss!). Got home to greet the basset, took her for a walk to the grocery store before the snow started. Betsy threw together some spinach, potatoes, salad, and leftover lamb from freezer; I opened a 375 of 1997 Lagrange (St. Julien). Medium-bodied, with pleasant blackcurrant fruit and a bit of tobacco. Not especially complex or long, seems fully mature, a pleasant claret. B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

Reply to
DaleW
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Our pleasure, I'm sure. :^) It's always interesting to meet fellow AWFers. I have yet to meet a turkey.

I hadn't been to Laguna Beach in decades. I arrived about an hour early and walked around town, checking out the art galleries.

Very pleasant evening, with a nice

This wine would have been better if served at the dessert end of the meal instead of before. It pretty much killed the following (dry) wine dead in its tracks.

I'll take all that as a serious compliment. :^) Ian has a couple of bottles of that stashed away, and has tasted it at a couple of points in its development - including while in barrel. Mike has one also. The one I gave Dale is the reserve lot (more new oak).

This was the first Austrian wine I've ever tasted, and I really liked it. I'm not meticulous about note taking as Dale, and I can't pull all those wonderfully descriptive adjectives, similes and metaphors out of a glass as many others routinely do - but this was a rich, somewhat fat, yet crisp wine.

I'm a big fan of Italian wines, but this one didn't really *sing* to me. I left it to Kriss and Dale, who seemed to appreciate it much more than I did. Perhaps I should have poured a glass and just let it sit for awhile - but I didn't. I recall Kriss really liked the nose.

Another first for me: sweet Vouvray. I have to confess that Chenin Blanc really doesn't do much for me. This was an OK wine, but I couldn't help thinking that Chardonnay made in the same style would have a lot more depth and intensity.

Betsy and I had a very nice chat. I didn't mean to hog the conversation with her, but it was difficult to hear Dale or Kriss across the table because the ambient sound level was rather high, and neither my hearing nor lip reading are up to par. :^/

The service at the restaurant was quite

I had a taste of both Betsy's mussels and Dale's calamari, which were both a lot better than my pasta dish. As usual, after long deliberation I managed to find the worst dish on the menu and order that! I really shouldn't bother reading the damned thing, but simply order the special - whatever it is.

Next time we really should coordinate our wine selections in advance. That has to be some sort of record: three wine geeks, five bottles of wine, and only ONE of them red! ;^)

Still, this was a fun evening, and I'm privileged to have broken bread with these three nice folks.

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

Tom,

Bonnezeaux is an appelation in the Layon area, so not Vouvray. This was a mediocre rendition of Bonnezeaux, which IMHO seldom reaches the heights of say a Quarts de Chaume or top Vouvray moelleux as an example of sweet chenin. I can't say I've been a big fan of the few botrytised Chards I've had.

Thanks for the evening AND the nice bottle (I laughed at the "mise en bouteille au Notre Garage").

Reply to
DaleW

Me neither. In fact, I _hate_ botrytis in Chardonnay. That said, however, it is entirely possible to make a Chardonnay (or other white grape) in a sweet, dessert style from very ripe grapes that have no trace of botrytis. I've made a couple over the years (by accident, when the fermentation "stuck" off-dry) and they are quite pleasant - particularly on a Summer afternoon.

FWIW, I didn't find much if any botrytis in that Bonnezeaux. None in the Moscato either, but the R.S. in the latter was due to arrested fermentation of grapes harvested at normal maturity (as is the case in Asti, I'm sure).

My pleasure. :^)

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

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