The other night we had a belated holiday feast with family and friends and took the opportunity to crack into some interesting older vino - here are my notes:
1983 Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Having not expected much from this bottle, I have to admit that I was fairly pleasantly surprised! This won’t go down in anyone’s book as a ‘great’ wine, but I was amazed that it did in fact show signs of life. The cork was in terrific condition, saturated only about 1/4” up. Significant bricking surround a bright clear ruby core, while the nose offers dusty roses, tobacco, cherries, and light spice. Tannins are non-existent and this is light bodied, with fruit certainly in decline, but still an enjoyable wine. 84 points.
1984 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon Another cork in spectacular condition, saturated only about 1/4 of the distance up from the base. Moderate bricking surround a beautiful dark purple core. Initially a little stinky, that blew off in minutes to reveal a fabulous nose of dark cherries, cedar, leather, earth, and plum. Tannins are fully resolved, leaving a plush, silky-smooth texture, terrific balance, and complex sweet fruit. Finishes medium short, this wine has held up remarkably well. 92 points, drink now.
1985 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon Yet another cork in great condition, maybe 1/3 saturated. Even darker than the ’84, a dark purple with very little bricking. Slight vegetal aromas detracted slightly from the nose, which also offered up dark plum, currants, leather, and spice. In the mouth the most striking aspect of this wine were the still substantial tannins! Good fruit is present, but my concern is that it may not live until the tannins subside. Overall a pleasant wine, but overshadowed by the elegance offered by the 1984. 89 points.
1985 Smith-Madrone Spring Mnt. Cabernet Sauvignon Excellent cork, firm with maybe 1/8th inch of saturation. The color on this wine is blood red with moderate bricking on the edge. On the nose this wine could easily be mistaken for aged Bordeaux, delivering crushed berries, graphite, earth, and plum. On the palate primary fruit is still present, if perhaps beginning to fade a bit, and is married to those lovely secondary nuances of aged cab. Still bright acidity and notable, but not prominent tannins lead to a medium-short finish. 90 points, drink now.
Eric White